Outrigger Question regarding Hiking Boards

Discussion in 'Multihulls' started by BobBill, Aug 16, 2017.

  1. BobBill
    Joined: Oct 2009
    Posts: 873
    Likes: 25, Points: 28, Legacy Rep: 157
    Location: Minnesotan wakes up daily, in SE MN, a good start,

    BobBill Senior Member

    FWIW. Used trailer with rig on to pick up a prehung door at local place, the board etc stayed in place and so on! The hook and loop is tenacious, indeed! Shoulda known...

  2. phillysailor
    Joined: Nov 2012
    Posts: 21
    Likes: 2, Points: 3, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Media, PA

    phillysailor Junior Member

    I just made seats for Va'a motu... they only have to be 34" long from canoe out to pipes lashed to the fire and aft crossbeams. I had made them out of wood but, man they were heavy.

    So I bought pink insulation foam boards and epoxied a thin plywood face to the topside, then covered the top with one layer FG, the sides with two and the corners and bottom with three. All layers estimated to make it durable and capable of taking my weight.

    I tested it by having an enthusiastic teenager try to break it by jumping. It passed this vigorous testing methodology with flying colors!

    The thickness (2") makes it extremely rigid (essentially a torsion box or box beam) and saved me a LOT of weight. If crossing a longer span you could use two boards for 4" thickness, and it could be quite wide and therefore comfortable.

    I figure I will lash the board to the pipe by drilling two sets of two holes right through the boards beside where they rest on the pipes, and threading a line thru.

    Oh, whoops. Just realized that we've been chatting parallel on WoodenBoat design forum. Hmph, lol.
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