One man fishing boat

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Mountain man, Aug 7, 2010.

  1. ancient kayaker
    Joined: Aug 2006
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    Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada

    ancient kayaker aka Terry Haines

    MM: that narrow river would have a speed limit so you should be reasonably safe. I would look at the Solstice, only 32 lb, seems a good choice, or its tougher Sportsman cousin which is likely to be heavier and have a rigid bottom board.

    I don't have experience of cartopping an inflatable but when inflating one the boat is soft enough to stuff into a van, if you have one, for the first 90% of the time so you may not have to go through the whole deflate/inflate cycle each time.

    A beam of 4ft plus is stable enough to stand and move around. One small note: from experience with my own (60 lb) boat when you move one way in a light boat it moves the other way! Takes a bit of getting used to, especially if your hands are full will fishing gear. If it becomes a problem you can use water ballast to increase mass or several boards in the water to prevent sideslip.

    Whatever, good luck with your project!
     
  2. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

  3. ThomD
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    ThomD Senior Member

    foofproof/foolproof= 89% ! Which frankly is better than my F150 after twelve years. :)

    Here it is with the bottom dry fit. I want to stress the WW is a specialized device in that it is shorter than most current kick boats, and requires that the seat area provide some of the floatation. This platform would need about 6 inches of clearance to operate properly without underhull interference. All I can say is, less drag than a float tube. Anyway, got to get back to it, I have about 2 more hours of work tonight.
     

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  4. ancient kayaker
    Joined: Aug 2006
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    ancient kayaker aka Terry Haines

    That'll do the job. However, I think it would have much less drag if there was more clearance under the bridge.
     
  5. ThomD
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    ThomD Senior Member

    It would be a lot longer, which is not the design brief. The floatation under the bridge is critical to the displacement, even with the flat bottomed hulls. Designs are successful in proportion to how closely they meet the design brief, not how closely they meet some other design brief. The WW was this way, and I wanted something that would go in the back of the truck and be able to close the tailgate. Also I don't know that it will be faster by any significant amount. It would obviously at a regatta, but operationally these things tend to move very slowly, or drift, since fishing not speed is the objective. Also in wood, one has to take into consideration impact noise on the hull. If the wooden bridgedeck is high enough to clear the waves, but still low enough to allow powering by swim fins, then there is a very real posibility there will be loud slaps, which would not help the fish catching ability. I take note, that a lot of modern cats with higher seats seem to rely on their oars, which is certainly not what I want here. Flyfishing is a busy enough activity without oars... But whether all these calculations are correct, I won't know until I launch it. That actually is the main risk, missing the mark. So far never made a real flop, did have to redesign a few points on one 16' motor cat once.
     
  6. ThomD
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    ThomD Senior Member

  7. Mountain man
    Joined: Aug 2010
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    Mountain man Junior Member

    So when it comes time to water proof my wood pontoons, I want to use an epoxy resin. But where can I get it in Calgary? I looked at Canadian tire, I found a 25ml tube, but I think I would need at least a case to cover my project.
    I have heard of using a spray on truck liner for waterproofing, is that a viable solution? It is water proof and abrasion resistant. Would the textured finish be a hindrance in the water, or would it not mater at my ultra low speeds?

    Submarine Tom - the Solstice dose have all that I want, and more, including hundreds of dollars over my budget.

    ThomD - what are you planing to use to waterproof your WW?
     
  8. ancient kayaker
    Joined: Aug 2006
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    ancient kayaker aka Terry Haines

    The finish you need depends on how you intend to use your boat. You mentioned in your first post you wanted to be able to carry it for a short distance. If that means you will take it out of the water after each use, what boaters call dry docking, then it will only be in the water for a few hours at a time, at most, and will dry out in between. If that is the case it doesn't really need more than a decent paint job.

    I used regular latex house paint on my canoe, I store it in my garage, it's nearly 3 years old and shows no sign of water-related problems. The only problem I have is the decks which are varnished: I used a marine varnish but afterwards realized it was indoor - I assumed marine varnish would all be outdoor type. Even so, it is only getting slightly cloudy so far. My sailboat was finished the same way and it is stored outdoors but it has only gone through one winter so it is too soon to be sure.

    Even if you store it outside, that's what house paint is intended for! If you do use an epoxy resin be aware that it can be damaged by UV so it must be painted or varnished with an outdoor finish. Whatever you choose, leave some provision for inspection and ventilation: the nose is great for detection small leaks.
     
  9. Mountain man
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    Mountain man Junior Member

    I have a can of Polyester resin in the basement that I don't have any plans for, Would that be sufficient?
     
  10. ThomD
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    ThomD Senior Member

    You need both resin and cloth. The next step with my build is to glass it, I am using MAS epoxy, WEST epoxy, and standard boat cloth. That will make the boat last pretty much forever. It needs paint over that for UV protection, and recently I have been using Behr Super White interior exterior, tint as required, but normally the white, white wouldn't be cool in this case.

    It is possible to use polyester resin, but it is sufficiently inferior that it is not considered by most people any longer, done right it can yield lasting results, though we are still talking about using resin and glass.

    In Canada, there aren't any terribly attractive options for buying epoxies, and the price hasn't improved even though the Can dollar is super strong these days. I just find a local supplier, and pressure him to give me Noah's prices. That works most of the time. Epoxy isn't cheap, but it is pretty close to magic.
     
  11. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    M & M,

    You will be well over the $300 mark of a Solstice when you're done.

    I do wish you well in your venture though.

    -Tom
     
  12. thudpucker
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    thudpucker Senior Member

    I'm not going to use anything on my little wooden Jon except some Epoxy Glue at the joints, and good oil based primer and paint.

    I cant think of a good reason for the Cloth n' Resin when Primer and paint will do just as well and are not as likely to separate from the wood caused by the Sun.
     
  13. ThomD
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    ThomD Senior Member

    Primer and paint are an option for certain boats. Wood epoxy boats have the lowest maintenance costs of any type including glass boats. I have had several that are sitting outside for decades and though the latex goes dull (easily touched up), other than that they are as good as the day I first left them outside. It has been my observation over the years that half measures have always led to more work later. But the project has to be the type that can be glassed and epoxied, plywood qualifies, wood laminates, etc... Also there are pojects that would barely survive a day without encapsulation, paper boats etc... Some boats survive quite well in marine ply, if left in the water essentially year round, that doesn't work in much of Canada where year round in the out of doors involves a lot of snow and ice.
     
  14. lewisboats
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    lewisboats Obsessed Member

    Epoxy and glass have a place when using plywood if merely to reduce checking. If the typical North American (marine) plywood of fir or pine is used it can check horribly in the sun and neither paint nor plain epoxy can prevent it. A light layer of glass (2-3 oz) will usually eliminate or vastly reduce surface checking which allows water to penetrate your barrier coating of paint or epoxy and lets water into the surface ply (and interior plies if there are voids in the core plies or voids in the glue layer between plies). Checking in this instance is the separation of the graining of the wood caused by variations in the expansion of the softer and harder grain areas of rotary cut veneer and the micro stress areas where the grain has been cut at varying angles as the log is peeled. They appear as fine crack lines like those on the back of your hands (if you are old like me) and no paint in the world will hold those together...so the wood either shifts under the paint or much more likely the paint cracks along with the surface of the wood. This can be evident the very first time you take the boat out on a hot sunny day or may develop over a few exposure cycles.
     

  15. Mountain man
    Joined: Aug 2010
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    Mountain man Junior Member

    So all I need is an oil base paint to water proof, poly resin (with cloth) is better, but epoxy resin (with cloth) is best. Has any one used truck bed liner http://www.line-x.com/ for marine applications?
     
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