On going steel boat maintenace

Discussion in 'Metal Boat Building' started by kens2114, Dec 8, 2008.

  1. Brent Swain
    Joined: Mar 2002
    Posts: 951
    Likes: 38, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: -12
    Location: British Columbia

    Brent Swain Member

    steel

    The stainless cleats I weld on take a minute to fabricate and cost under $1,,and will never leak or work loose. The same cleat in bolt on to fibreglas or wood version costs $40, not counting the bolts and bedding compound needed to bolt them down, and take longer to go buy than to build for a metal boat. Detailing a steel boat costs a fraction of what it does for non metal boats , and is far more trouble free, for exactly this reason. Most detail, like lifelines , handrails, cleats , mooring bits , hatch hinges , engine mounts, winch bases,anchor winch, blocks , etc etc are fabricated from scrapyard stainless for about $1.50 a pound, a fraction the cost of buying finished hardware at retail prices.
    Rifle impact is similar to sharp rock impact. What it takes to resist a rifle bullet it takes to resist a sharp rock.
    The photos that Wynand posted say a lot about safety factors. Denial is lying. You say all small Steel boats are slow?You are a well proven liar.
    People who try to sustain the elitist ******** notion that only the most expensive and time consuming way of building and rigging a boat will work, and the elitist ******** notion that not having enough money to go the most expensive route means you can't go cruising, costs far more people their cruising dreams, than those who show them more affordable alternatives, like building sheet blocks for a couple of bucks , watermakers for a tenth of the retail price, furlers for under $200, hulls in three days , etc etc.
    My methods have saved a lot of people their cruising dreams and have made them a reality for many who could never afford to live them, had they bought the elitist ********.
    Brent
     
  2. NormalBloke
    Joined: Jan 2007
    Posts: 6
    Likes: 2, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 37
    Location: Australia

    NormalBloke Junior Member

    My Steel Boat

    I have a beautiful steel boat, it's a 38' Alan Payne Koonya that was built in Freemantle in 1973. I keep it moored in the Brisbane River and enjoy sailing her around Moreton Bay and up the Queensland coast. You do have to keep an eya on the paint and repair any scratches or chips before the rust gets going. My boat has a 3/4 keel and displaces 11 tonne but it sails beautifully and can get close to 8 knots. It is built very strongly which is great for me because I am still a learner.

    Patrick

    Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
    IMGP1589.JPG
     
    2 people like this.
  3. Landlubber
    Joined: Jun 2007
    Posts: 2,640
    Likes: 125, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 1802
    Location: Brisbane

    Landlubber Senior Member

    Hey mate, no "Normal Bloke" would stay on the Brisbane River any longer than necessary!!!!!!!! .......go North young man.

    Yeah, it is always best to do your preventative maintenance as it occurrs.

    Nice boat too!
     
  4. Brent Swain
    Joined: Mar 2002
    Posts: 951
    Likes: 38, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: -12
    Location: British Columbia

    Brent Swain Member

    One of my twin keelers called "Misty Blue " hangs out in your area.
    If you give a steel hull several coats of cold galvanizing primer,imediately after blasting, before your epoxy, you get a bit more time to touch up dings and scrapes before it starts to rust. Cold galv primer doesn't chip. If you trim all outside corners with stainless and put ss handrails on the outside corners of the cabin sides ,instead of slightly inboard, you reduce the amount of dings and chipped paint on the corners drastically, reducing your maintenance by up to 80%. Corners chip often, flat surfaces rarely chip.
    My Brisbane uncle says the sugar industry there is a good source of scrap stainless.
    Gorgeous looking boat you have.
    Brent
     

  5. steeldetal12
    Joined: Jan 2009
    Posts: 1
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Uk

    steeldetal12 New Member

    Steel Detailing

    Hi,
    During the auto detailing process, ensure the vehicle is in a shady space, preferably a cool shop or a roofed space. This is because many of the common and effective car detailing products like paint and wax do not work properly when used on hot surfaces. Therefore, cleaning the auto's exterior under the sun is not prudent as well.
     
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