Mercury 1150

Discussion in 'Outboards' started by Howell4547, Dec 4, 2016.

  1. Howell4547
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Howell4547 New Member

    I have a 74 1150 I have been working on. Have gotten a new coil and rebuilt the fuel pump. I have checked and verified all electronics are working correctly. Carbs have been cleaned but not rebuilt, the parts all looked good. I am still not getting it to start. Not sure if the lines from fuel pump to engine are working correctly and don't know how to tell. Any assistance anyone has would be great. Oh and compression on all 6 cylinders is good.

    Thanks,
     
  2. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    A workshop manual for that should be easily obtainable, you can then follow troubleshooting procedures outlined therein. That's an old engine, and might still be serviceable if it wasn't used in salt water, certainly at that stage (1974) the metal in them was not a long-term proposition in salt water. One thing you could check is whether the choke is working properly.
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Welcome to the forum.

    It's really easy to have swapped the fuel supply and feed lines at the pump. The obvious check is to pull the feed line and crank the engine. If fuel comes out, it's plumbed properly, if not, further checking is necessary.

    Generally, the very first part you should buy is a manual for the engine/drive you have. In this, you can run through the diagnostic procedures and pin down the issues. It's all pretty easy stuff, but it helps to compare apples to apples. For example, establish if you're getting a healthy spark and the timing is roughly set, so you can ascertain if it's a fuel delivery or ignition problem. Hunting and pecking and replacing parts without knowing what's going on is an expensive way to do things.
     
  4. Howell4547
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    Howell4547 New Member

    1150

    No salt water use. I will have to get a book on it. The choke does work. I am looking to see if the plugs needing to be used on this motor is the flat ones or traditional plugs that are gapped? I worry that type will hit the pistons? It currently had the flat plugs.
     
  5. Howell4547
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    Howell4547 New Member

    I know I have the supply lines correct. I have tried both ways on the lines connected to the crank case. Wasn't sure if they needed to be one way or the other. I'm sure the book will detail.
     
  6. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Which engine is this? The plugs are easy enough to find and identify and unless you're very far off the mark with them, unlikely they'll hit the pistons. Just pull one out and the base type will be obvious. If it doesn't have any plugs, examine the hole bottom. If it has a slight conical shape, it'll take the tapered plug, if it's flat the gasketed seat.

    Get the book and start at the top, check the static timing, and if you're getting a good spark. If so, it's probably a fuel delivery issue. If not, continue searching through the ignition system to find the problem(s). If this is the engine I think it is, just cleaning the carbs usually isn't enough, as most don't actually clean them, as much as wash out the majority of gunk. These would also be prone to very small cracks in certain areas and portions of the carb and internal parts, which need to be inspected, often with a magnifying glass.
     
  7. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    CDK retired engineer

    One very quick way to check whether the the problem is spark or fuel related:

    Use a butane torch to blow some gas in the air intake while starting the engine. If it starts or only coughs your problem is fuel, otherwise it is electrical.
    Do not allow the engine to run for more than a few seconds without oil!

    These straight 4 and 6 engines came with the flat, non-adjustable spark plugs. Using standard plugs with short thread is possible but offers no advantages.
     
  8. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Don't bugger around with the ignition system with these engines by, for example, running compression checks without first properly disabling the ignition system, as per manual instructions. You can quickly damage coils, e.g. Hopefully you have not done this.
     
  9. powerabout
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    powerabout Senior Member

    does it have a distributor, if so drop the cap off and clean inside with acetone or something
     
  10. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    I doubt it, I think even the old red-band c.1970 had the "Thunderbolt" ignition, which I'm pretty sure was CD.
     
  11. powerabout
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    powerabout Senior Member

    Yes they had battery cd but had distrubutors well into the late 70's before converting to adi like a v6
     
  12. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Could be, he'd be able to establish that easily enough by inspection.
     
  13. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Looks like powerabout is right ( he usually is !) about the distributor, the '74 model parts list does show that as a part. I had a '78 model, and pretty sure it did not, but a long time ago now !
     

  14. powerabout
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    powerabout Senior Member

    Dont forget the screen filters in behind the fuel fitting screwed into the top of the float bowls
     
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