In my mind a boat with the dimensions (L 20', B 1', D 1') could be designed if especially the stability is proper calculated and a keel will have to be fitted (depth and size of the keel according to the stability calculation).
To install this app on your iPhone:
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I think your problem is similar to the optimisation of a kayak or surf-ski. Greater length reduces wave making drag, but increases skin friction drag. Start with power and displacement, then optimise length to minimise the sum of wave-making and skin friction drag. If you want no form stability from the hull, that might make the optimisation of the bulb keel an independent problem. You know what torque you need to balance your antenna array, so play with lever arm and weight. Make sure to sweep back that keel, so it has a better chance of shedding weed, ropes, and nets.Am interested in a design of a long thin motorboat hull (20:1 ratio) using a deep bulb type keel perhaps held by another high ratio aerofoil. I wanted a super stable design but ultra low drag. Can a seasoned mariner explain the downsides please?
Let's see. At a 20:1 ratio, a 40 foot boat would only be 2 ft wide.
A bulb keel of maybe 2 ft would be more than sufficient. Going deeper only adds more drag.
The only reason for a much deeper keel would be to counter balance something heavy and high up, such as a big antenna or maybe even a sailing rig.
Thanks very much Robert, great advice!I think your problem is similar to the optimisation of a kayak or surf-ski. Greater length reduces wave making drag, but increases skin friction drag. Start with power and displacement, then optimise length to minimise the sum of wave-making and skin friction drag. If you want no form stability from the hull, that might make the optimisation of the bulb keel an independent problem. You know what torque you need to balance your antenna array, so play with lever arm and weight. Make sure to sweep back that keel, so it has a better chance of shedding weed, ropes, and nets.
You can find a paper on optimising a surf-ski here: https://www.surfski.info/images/stories/2012/05/Length/Optimization of the length of a surf ski kayak.pdf
Yeah, the only modern power vessels that even get close to 10:1 are Ore Boats and the old Liners; even English narrowboats are rarely 10:1. But the 22m Dragon boats and ~40m Maori war canoes (waka taua) get near 20:1.Even the most extreme plank on edge cutters only had L/B a bit over six. They were called "six beam cutters". Rona 1892 is probably the best known, and still survives. But these hull forms carried huge ballast in very thick keels, and they didn't have strut keels back then, so a very different hull form due to material strengths and the fact that they were sailboats.
But the 22m Dragon boats and ~40m Maori war canoes (waka taua) get near 20:1.
A 20/1 monohull with bulb keel is a pendulum. Good luck on such an unstoppable roller, oscillating at the least solicitation, specially waves, look for orbital movement of water in waves, you'll understand the problem of a deep keel on a very narrow hull, The wind on the superstructure will be another misery. Besides there are serious problems of habitability unless a platform on the hull. Thinking well you'll have a problem to install an inboard and even an outboard.Am interested in a design of a long thin motorboat hull (20:1 ratio) using a deep bulb type keel perhaps held by another high ratio aerofoil. I wanted a super stable design but ultra low drag. Can a seasoned mariner explain the downsides please?