Liner Painting

Asleep Helmsman

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2008
Messages
241
Reaction score
7
Location
Republic of Texas
As Usual, Pearson did an uncommonly good job gluing this head liner in place. After 50 years it is still holding.

However, it needs to be painted. I thought to use some kind of shellac based primer.

What do y'all think?
 
There's no good reason to justify the old shellac based primers any more. Scruff the crap out of the headliner and use a good quality primer. I prefer epoxy, because it always sticks, but most are pretty good now. The type of topcoat can affect the primer choice, what are you over coating this with?
 
There are several reasons for using shellac.

First off it is thousands of time less toxic. ten times easier to use and 100 times easier to clean up.

I was thinking, to be honest, I may use some kind of water based paint.

It is a million times less toxic, 20 times easier to apply, and 15 times easier to clean up.

There is a lot of wood work down there and would really hate to get paint all over it. With Shellac and water based this will not be a problem.

Plus I don't want to scruff it. I like the texture they used.
 
Water based paints use the same (okay similar, just a different type of alcohol) vehicle as shellac based, just the resin base is different. If you eat the paint, you might have issue, but most attempt to avoid this. Toxicity concerns are way over rated, again, unless you're bathing in it. Some lab rats in California might develop issues when force fed doses of the stuff over several months, but . . .

Alkyd and acrylic primers are suitable, as are epoxies, which for the most part are lower in VOC's than the alkyds and certainly the modified versions of these. There are also waterborne epoxy primers that are easy to clean as well. Lastly, you'll need to tooth the surface just to get the paint to stick. You don't have to remove the texture, just a good scratching.
 
Water based paints use the same (okay similar, just a different type of alcohol) vehicle as shellac based, just the resin base is different. If you eat the paint, you might have issue, but most attempt to avoid this. Toxicity concerns are way over rated, again, unless you're bathing in it. Some lab rats in California might develop issues when force fed doses of the stuff over several months, but . . .

Alkyd and acrylic primers are suitable, as are epoxies, which for the most part are lower in VOC's than the alkyds and certainly the modified versions of these. There are also waterborne epoxy primers that are easy to clean as well. Lastly, you'll need to tooth the surface just to get the paint to stick. You don't have to remove the texture, just a good scratching.


I was referring to the application.
 
If it is vinyl, then it can be coated with acrylic paint, give it a good clean with sugar soap ( Trisodium Phosphate ?) solution first to get off accumulated grime.
 
A good degreaser is what I use on vinyl, "Purple Power" in fact. An upholstery buddy of mine prefers denatured alcohol. I'd also recommend one of the flexible vinyl paints, instead of an acrylic or alkyd. SEM products seem to work better then Rustoleum or Dupicolor. Let it dry for a few days before painting.
 
If we are talking about a confined and poorly ventilated space, any kind of solvent based cleaners could be getting the user a high like a glue-sniffer !
 
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making any potentially dangerous or financial decision, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.

  • Back
    Top