Interlux Perfection vs Awlgrip

I'm getting ready to paint some of my '78 Silverton. I've done repairs with epoxy. I plan to try to get a nice finish, but I am limited to roll and brush. I'm not an experienced painter, although I've done a lot of furniture refinishing and know the basics about too thick, don't paint in sun, etc.

My question is, anyone had experience roll and brushing Interlux Perfection and Awlgrip? Which is easier to apply for a non painter? Do you consider them to be equal in quality- (durable, non fade, etc.)?

 

http://www.yachtpaint.com/Images/29_20471.pdf

Pericles

 

Well, after reading all the literature, I think I'm gonna punt and go for Interlux Brightside one part paint. The toxicity of the two parts and all the extra $ and time... I'll take the easy route.

 

One part Interlux gives a good finish, however after using it on my current boat, I am going with a more tough durable two-part poly (Awlgrip). Plus after about 3-4 years my single part poly is getting chalky. Maybe a good wash and wax will help....

 

Your one part Interlux is getting chalky after 3-4 years? How often do you wash and wax it?

 

Unfortunately not nearly enough. I've never waxed it, but I do rinse it after every fishing trip. Last time I washed it was about 2 months ago. Between being on deployments overseas, and three years on the east coast, she could have been better taken care of. I'm pretty sure that with a good scrubbing and wax job she'll be looking new again.

 

I have used interlux and Easy Poxy on other peoples boats, because they didn't want to spend the extra money, but on my own boat I use Awl Grip. Nothing matches the shine or durability. I spent 3 months fairing and priming my deck (working weekends on a 38' sailboat) and about 2 hours painting. roll and tip. It was worth the work. If it's your own go for it.

 

Kaptin-Jer, I was planning on spraying my next project, but was wondering how easy is it to roll and tip? I know how to do it (weel, from reading) but was wondering realistically how is the finish and is it worth the "extra work" compared to spraying? BTW- I paint aircraft with 2 part poly, so fumes and stuff don't scare me LOL

 

Hi Sarge,
I started rolling and tipping 4 years ago because I couldn't afford to pay to have my boat sprayed and didn't have the equipment to do it myself. I never had a problem. It is much easier than people would have you think. The real key is the same as spraying, you have to have a perfect base to coat. -Lots of sanding at 320 grit, mostly by hand. You have to remember that Awl Grip has the consistency of water (about the same as Auto paint). If the primer is sanded smooth then the coating will be perfect. You will need to put at least 3 top coats over a minimum of 2 prime coats. It's helpful to top coat with a partner, one rolling one tipping, working the tipping brush back toward the previous area. Only work in 18" to 2' sections and once you start you have to keep going. You will not be able to tell that the boat was brushed. It will be as smooth and as shinny as a spray job. If you need more help there are more tips I can give, but I am a believer. Go for it. (You can always sand the last coat and spray if it doesn't come out)

 

Jer thanks for the advice. I may try it, as my current boat I had to spray in front of my house, and had to do it on a calm day, taking the neighbors cars next door and down-wind into consideration. I've seen roll and tip that really look awesome, and my buddy rolled his sailboat (no tip) and it still came out pretty nice. However, as you can see, I'm a ways off from painting!

 

I'll show you mine since you did first

Danny,
I attached 2 pictures. The first is a bow shot of my first roll and tip (zoom in to get a good look). The second is a pic. of my current boat. I bought the first for $800.00 fixed it up and sold it. I bought the Beneteau with the money I made on the first. Yours looks in better shape then my first one, and looks like a boat worth putting the time and sweat into.

Jerry

 

Jerry,
That's a sweet looking paint job- nice and glossy, great reflection too! And thanks for the encouragement on my next project. I've done two boats before this, but nothing that extensive- this thing is a complete bare hull up restore! Hopefully the boat gets finished before the wifes tolerance LOL

 

good info guys,and jerry ,,what did you paint the first sailboat with ?looks really nice,longliner

 

Longliner, (My friend was a real longliner out of new york)
The first picture , (and my first attempt at Awl Grip - a 26' 1989 Chrysler). Has 2 prime coats and 4 top coats of Awl Grip, painted where its sitting in a U store-it yard. (got Kicked out right after this picture because of the rust stains from the keel that I'm grinding) It is not necessary to spray Awl Grip. It's safer, you get a heavier film for better protection and with no loss in gloss if you roll and tip. You can see from this picture that there are no brush marks. The only problem I had was from dust, but that would have happened spraying. I have since found out that even that can be almost eliminated by adding an accelerator to the mix.
Danny,
The Benny is a "hull up" restoration too. I have gutted the interior and have just started to pull new wires. She sank and rolled in a hurricane. That picture was taken after 18 months of structural hull repair, just before I put her in the water . The deck is finished and Awl Griped, both gloss and flat non skid. I'll haul her in January (Bonus money time)and Paint the hull. I have been working on it now for 3 years on the weekends, and have already been offered $40,000.00, but this one is a keeper. Not bad for an $800.00 investment. and thats without touching the mortgage money or getting a divorce.

 

Nice looking job! Very fair and smooth hull. You'd be surprised how many people screw up their boat hulls by putting gouges and divots when they sand for painting. I don't see any of that kind of ugliness there.

The brush catalyst is substantially slower curing than the spray type, so you do get more dust when brushing Awl Grip due to the longer wet time. You can use the Pro Cure accelerator to an extent. Maximum accelerator with spray catalyst can get you all the way to tape free in about 3 hours. I don't think you can accelerate the brush cat THAT much. Maybe, but I've never tried. I think you'll probably get the millions-of-tiny-bubbles thing if you try it, though

Jimbo