Infusion Plan

Jorge - What media or mesh are you using? There dosn' seem to be a media or are you using grooved core? Peter

 

Thanks for the heads up. ... the ends are taped up on the fish bones and I was painstakingly careful making sure no bridging could occur but if it's looking for trouble then ok, bad plan.

Instead of undoing everything ... would something like this work - Cut bones back to let resin front even up before hitting potential danger zone and then run a second feed on each side to take it the rest of the way up to gunnels?

 

The green stuff is Airtech's infusion mesh

 

Yes, much better Jorge, just make sure that the chine resin line is equidistant from the chine itself, or right on the chine- you have it drawn with the ends too close and the center away from it.

When your doing it this way, you also have to make sure that the ends of the resin lines (all of them) are about equidistant from the chine, so the resin front reaches the next line more or less at the same time. So the middle runners off the backbone should be a bit longer etc. Same goes for the chine resin line, it should be equidistant from the gunnel and if its not - because your boat sides are tapered - then you need to account for this not finishing evenly or add slight fishbones to get the ends equidistant again etc.

Make sure you stop the flow media about an inch from the edges, and leave a ~3inch peel ply only resin brake between the panel edge and vac line (allows the vacuum path but very slow resin path) This helps to even out the edge in case 1 section finishes a bit earlier along the gunnel.


Petereng`s strategy we spoke of last time, doesnt have this problem because it finishes in the middle at a single point.

 

Okay, sounds good ... so the bones follow the line of the chine, got it.

Would you do 2 or 3 inlets on the main feed and chine feeds? It's a run of 22'

I will mod it on Monday and post another pic.

 

It is possible to do it this way, however indeed you can expect some racetracking. (see picture)

Not too worrying, just keep some vacuum needles ready (see other picture). (when buying needles, go to a vet, not a doctor. You want 10 or 12 gauge needles)

The other solution is to take the racetracking into your design. In this case have 2 feed lines, in the chines, and fishbones inwards, with a stretch of MTI hose around the perimeter, and along the keel. (I doubt you need fishbones upwards on the sides, it is just a short distance)

 

In which case you get something like this. When infusing, first the keel feed line is opened, after infusion of the bottom, the chine feed lines are opened.

 

Excellent post herman, really illustrates the point that racetracking likes to happen around chines and the effect of creating dry spots between runners.

Jorge, hermans second post illustrates the infusion strategy your looking at right now - although yours doesnt really *need* the fishbones because your distances are much smaller than the bigger boat shown here. Yours could be done with 2 parallel sequential feeds if you so desired. But if you like the fishbone (and youve already made it) then go with it...

You will only need 2 lines into the center fish bone, then just 1 into each of the chine feeds... your only infusing a single skin so there wont be much resin to move...

 

Herman ... on the second post, why wouldn't you do it the same way you mentioned in the first post - with the main feed along the chine and fish bones running up to gunnel and towards keel?

Also can you elaborate on the needle system. I have a friend who works at a vet, I wouldn't mind having this laying around just in case

 

Yep, was just studying that picture. I was just thinking that in my case if I ran the feed along the chine with the fishbones pointing to keel and MTI in the center and along gunnels ... then I could have done this with a T connector!!! LOL

 

You just have a large intravenus needle (from a vet) in a syringe body, then insert your vac hose into the syringe body and have it clamped off ready to use. If you get a dry spot, insert the needle with tacky tape around the needle shank into the center of the dry and use the tape to seal the bag around it. Leave it there until your pulling resin into the syringe. When its wetout, withdraw it and quickly seal the hole in the bag by withdrawing the needle but leaving the tacky tape behind and squishing it.

 

Nice trick in case of emergency! I will have to have this on standby.

 

If your going to redo the setup, do it like this ^^^

You only need 1 batch of resin, with say 4 inlets and no race tracking possibilities... :idea:

 

Yeah, I believe I will ... seems really safe. How long would you think the keel MTI line to be? Seems like it could be just a foot or two?

 

Yep, only needs to be a single point right in the center, just use enough to make a decent connection to it and so its neat tidy and sealed up so it behaves like its supposed to - allows vacuum but blocks resin - so no leaks!