hull repair

i can see what you mean i have a very narrow area to work with but i will take some more pics this weekend thanx for your time

 

All that brown terrible looking old glass need to go !! first do a grind up job on the outside grind to about half the deepth of the glass thickness and minimum of 60mm all round the crack then glass with how ever many layers it takes to get level then get inside and grind back into and onto the new glass and get all that grap out of the ways . treat it like a wound on you are it need to be clean before you start to do the repair if theres brown its got to go !!

 

some pics before grinding and after i think i need to grind some more

 

two more

 

some more glass laid up inside 4 layers on floor 2 up the ribs does it look like im moving in the rihgt direction and just grind out more outside into the damage

 

one more 2 of the bays done 2 more to go then outside as long as the weather holds in the northeast

 

Thats better !! dont be afraid when doing glass repairs you got to get rid of the old damaged dirty glass and get back to a good clean bonding surface . if part of the damaged glass is still there then laminate one side first then trun it over when its hard and grind out the rest of the grot from that side its the correct way to do repairs from both sides . and make the grind out over a big area thats much less chance of the repair delaminating or coming loose ever !! .

Good job !!

 

Hi ecmau. I spend most of my youth in Milford and graduated from milford High School before it closed........

Fortunately your crack is in a small boat and not some speed boat bouncing off waves at 30 knots!

I responded mostly because I saw you were from Milford, but I will add, since I am here and I'm an epoxy vendor, that there are kevlar/fledspar reinforced epoxy paste products that would 'stoutly' fix your crack and weak areas with or without more fiberglass cloth and a liberal visit with a 'right angle grinder."

PAR's approach is, of course, the best way and the "by the book way", (he really knows his stuff!) but a 'quick and dirty' fix, in your case, would probably be fine. Such fixes with these kinds of products have been successful in hard to reach spots in personal water craft repairs. Again, I wouldn't do it on a fast, big or expensive, or 'show off' boat.

paul
progressive epoxy polymers

 

thanx for the info paul i went to milford high also class 81 but this is a bigg boat

 

question

You must grind the damaged area at first ,Make sure you can see FRP structure,Then, fill it by structure glue(such as 1152pa),now,you can use epoxy resin and glass cloth repair it ,And Large area of as much as possible .

 

what temp would be minimum temp for marineepoxy i was told it will restart curing process when temp comes up but will the bond still be optimal

 

It depends on the hardener and the environmental conditions, but 60 is about as low as you should go and expect a full cure on fast hardeners, 70 on slow. Extra slow might require mid 70's.

Tent the boat, seal the tent to the ground with some sand bags or lengths of 2x6's, then place a heater inside the tent, near the work area. Even in freezing weather, you'll be able to hold mid 70's for a day, which is all you need. Yea, I know it's a big boat, so overlap the tarps generously, when draping the tent. Conversely, you can tape the tarp material to the hull bottom, confining the area you need to heat. Use a non-flame heater.

 

thanx par just trying to finish the inside tomorrow will be 45-50 so with heat inside i should be good then i will tent the outside

 

today was snow and 32 degrees so even heating i decided to wait

 

22-25 degrees Celsius is the best,i think