Hartley Flareline 16 project

I've never owned a boat but I can buy this for $600 (get's better...keep reading below!). Timber restoration work is no problem for me. I really wanna get this armchair sailor on the water!

 

.So the boat....The stern area has been weathered badly. Today I ripped up the cockpit false floor & inspected the hull skin, frames & stringers (tapped & knocked). Considering it had 4" of water in the bottom it hasn't fared too badly. Aft deck needs replacing as does the plywood bracing on the last frame above the keel hog & a bit of timber on the transom at hog level (the bung hole surround, no surprise there). Basically the entire boxed area's either side of the outboard need replacing but all the hardwood is in good solid condition. Paint peeling everywhere which has allowed some moisture in (deck & cabin). I'm told the boat was pushed out the back of the carport for a family BBQ & never put back in, so the stern has copped rain and weather for about 12 months. I'm told the outboard was serviced just prior to it being housed in the carport. Steering appears to move free & easy as does gear selector/throttle. Minor repairs needed on outer fibreglass skin. It looks worse than it is but I think this could make a good 5-6 month project. Trailer also needs a fair bit of work, rust & rollers, jockey wheel etc. I guess I'm looking for words of encouragement from other members, as I'm on a low income at the moment it's probably not the best time to buy BUT at this price it's almost impossible to say no. I know I can get it working. I'd like to be on the water about march next year. Let me know what you think...

 

The condition of the engine has to be the main consideration, you could check the colour of the gearcase oil, and do a compression check, to make sure it hasn't got a fundamental problem that would render it unserviceable. If it is not a "goer", it seems a pointless exercise.

 

Good point. Can you give me a few directions on how to & where to look. I'm very familiar with car engines but not had much to do with outboards. It's a pull start & my first job was going to be waking the motor up. At a glance I think its a 2 stroke? Will have to source a fuel tank but I'm hoping the lady owner has it stashed in a shed somewhere. I'm quietly confident it will run.

 

There's a chance the rubber impeller in the water pump may be shot from being squeezed up in the same position for years, but first you should be able to check the compression by pulling on the rope and feeling the increased resistance as each piston comes to the top of the stroke, obviously if its a twin cylinder there will be two per flywheel revolution, if that feels OK I'd next check the gearcase by loosening the lower drain screw on it, which should be on the lower side of the drive "torpedo". A little oil should be released, if it is dark in colour it is a good sign that water has not infiltrated, which can cause whitening of the oil, and is not good news if so. If you attempt to start it, make sure you have outboard oil in the fuel, and the drive leg immersed in a drum full of water, or you will cook it.

 

Thanks. I will check it out today. I wasn't going to attempt to fire it up but I know about using 2 stroke fuel and earmuffs for the cooling system. I'm making arrangements for a local marine tech' to inspect/diganose and attempt a start up next week. As I don't know enough & it's been sitting for so long I wouldn't be silly enough to try. Thanks & will keep you posted. I appreciate any & all advice.

 

The engine. 4 cyl'

I checked out the motor today. QUESTION: no air filters on the carburettor's, is this normal? . The motor actually looks very tidy, no oil leaks visible. The lady owner said it has been sitting for about 5 years. Boat was last registered in 2008. I pulled the starter cord and could feel definite compression on all 4 cylinders. There's also a fitting, presumably for a starter motor if I want to convert it. Checked the gearbox oil and it looks & smell's great, dark in colour, clean & slightly transparent. Monday I will be making arrangements to take the boat/motor to a marine tech' to inspect & hopefully fire it up. It'll cost about $100 but the owner said she will repay the amount to me if the motor is knackered by way of paying me to take the boat to a relative of hers. How good's that! If it runs we'll consider the deal done. I also managed to get the fuel tank & line plus a set of earmuffs for hose connection to the water intake. I knew she would have them somewhere!

 

offer less it cant hurt, start at 400, settle on 500

 

Mate, I'm not going to offer more than $50 ! I got the engine running today but the water pump isn't working. The motor fired up quick smart and only required a half pull for repeated start ups. (ran the motor 3-4 times for 10-20 seconds a pop) A marine tech I spoke to said some of the early model merc's need to be warm before the thermostat opens but I wasn't going to risk engine damage if that's not the case. When I next speak with the owner I'm going to offer to take it away free of charge. Local marine tech said the wooden boat is worth nothing in it's current state, & the motor might be worth $500 "if" it's in working order...which it aint!. Plus the trailer draw bar is rusted & split so If I can get the boat for nothing...all good, then I will source a second hand trailer (under $400) & get the boat to a marine tech to diagnose the motor ($80) & price the repairs. I'll keep you all posted.

 

Thermostat doesn't affect the water tell tale unless that motor is different to most, but often the tube will get blocked by wasps or insects if sitting around for years, so check that before declaring the water pump a lost cause. Sounds good that it starts so easy though. Replacing the water pump is a bit of a chore, but not a game-breaker.

 

Well i just spoke with the owner, the boat is mine for free! I'll get it on the 17'th. Only have to move it next door to my mums driveway. I did poke a length of wire up the water outlet to explore the chance of a blockage but the hole really isn't that big to start with (about 4mm). Ran the thing a couple times with a rev or 2 but no water exiting. As the trailer is rusted beyond towability I will try to source a second hand one for about $400-$500. If I can't, I'll sell the lot for what I can get as is. If I can get another trailer then I'll tow the boat to a marine tech & get motor diagnosed (remove gearbox & inspect/price repairs), that'll be $80. If repairable it'll be about $300-$400. Lets hope things go to plan but I have nothing but time now. Oh, & enough cash for a trailer and motor repairs. I'll post here again in a couple of days once I've taken ownership of the boat and cleaned it out.

 

Hey, Dirk
Good on you for rescuing another old wooden boat!

I have a similar 4.5m Hartley, which I think is a Scamp. I got if for $26 off eBay. I actually bid $30 but no-one outbid me.... LOL

It's hull is sound but a previous owner had attempted a resto by sanding it back with a circular sandin disc on a drill or angle grinder, and as a result left lots of small hemispherical divots in the woodwork, before paing over it in what appears to be house paint....

So I'm resigned to getting it soda-blasted, in order to get the paint out of the divots, before re-epoxuing the hull and restoring the topsides.

No motor, no trailer.... so I got a trailer off eBay with rego for $480 - so you're on the money there!

Post a few pics as you go along...

 

The trick in 'rescuing' old boats is to be sure they can be restored to a condition where you don't risk needing rescue ! Sometimes they are just too far gone.

 

Yeah, totally...but in the case of the 4.5m Scamp, the hull itself is solid as, and copper roved and bronze-screwed in 6mm marine ply.

So a good basis for a project. No rot to cut out first. Although the decks have been 'messed with' and will need replacing and done properly. But all the frames are solid and rot free.

 

I have the boat!

I got the boat today, best part was not even having to tow it on a road. My mum lives right next door with only grass between the 2 driveways! I live in a unit with no extra space outside for storage. After taking the time to remove all the crap from the cockpit I did find a bit more soft timber in the floor but it only runs about 5" forward from the transom & only up on the outer edge of the hull chine. Not that bad though, as the paint has peeled everywhere some moisture has soaked in & there's the fact the stringers sit hard up against the transom & don't allow ALL water to drain to the bung. I plan to rectify that though by filling it with resin & kind of leveling it so in future water will drain off the edge of 1 stringer & down onto the next, & so on 'till it's on the bottom. Then fill the keel up with a little resin also to level it with the bung. I'll probably lower the bung though too as the timber housing is soft anyway. I have a good plan in mind so when it comes to using the boat and hosing it out, I can get ALL water to drain out. I'm buying a BIG tarp tomorrow so after I take the temporary one off I will shoot some decent pics inside & out then put a few up here, might even shoot some video. I can't believe the cockpit timber survived so well with 5" of water in it for god knows how long.