"Hard Chines"

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by DaveK, Dec 1, 2005.

  1. DaveK
    Joined: Dec 2005
    Posts: 17
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    Location: Austin, TX

    DaveK Junior Member

    Wow... Thanks Doug!!! This is whole new world of different materials that take things to another level.

    Here's the deal.... Look at the first 2 pictures in the original post here. This boat sat exactley as pictured for 25 years outside in the Texas heat!! The trailer supports have warped floor in the front and back of the boat really bad. I don't want to add too much weight but, I do want to level those areas with some kind of filler material. Making the chines sharp is also an option while I'm at it. Also, since this boat is yellow, it must get a new paint job this winter. I'll probably use a single stage paint from Mathews. Not sure if Imron paint is still available from DuPont.

    I'll be happy to try whatever you suggest for this!!! I already ordered my Aircraft Spruce and Specialty's catalog.

    Thanks for any advise Doug!!
    DaveK
     
  2. Doug Lord

    Doug Lord Guest

    "imprints"

    Dave, what a dumb place for trailer supports! How deep are the imprints and how flexible is the bottom there? I'd imagine you could use Super Fil then spray with something like the Rober primer and do incidental filling with the "Icing". From a finish perspective you've got to be very carefull about mixing densities of filler material. For instance you don't want to sand thu the rober primer into Super Fil so get it down to 80 grit then spray the Rober and you might not even need any Icing...This is a very lite weight fix and should be strong enough-just move the trailer supports out close to the chines. Use the same primer on the whole boat.
    There is another trailer support system that might be too much work but it involves supporting the boat under the deck overhang and using one padded bunk down the center. The point is to remove almost all the load from the bottom and what little it might have would be on the center line. This is sometimes done to guarantee that no distortion can happen to the bottom no matter how long it sits. Good Luck!
    ----
    Be sure to experiment with the Super Fil first if you decide to use it.....
     
  3. yokebutt
    Joined: Aug 2004
    Posts: 545
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    Location: alameda CA

    yokebutt Boatbuilder

    Dave,

    I've had pretty good luck with using heat-lamps to get deformed fiberglass to creep back into place. A dent won't come all the way back out with heat, but you can probably reduce the filling neccessary by quite a bit. Be very careful though, a cheapo infrared thermometer is good insurance.

    Yoke.
     
  4. DaveK
    Joined: Dec 2005
    Posts: 17
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    Location: Austin, TX

    DaveK Junior Member

    Yes... that's a stupid place to put supports!!! I already moved the supports and I cringe every time I feel the imprints. They are pretty deep as well. Maybe as much as .5" or more. I may try the heat lamp but, I'm afraid its there to stay after 25 years. The floor is soft there as well. Super Fil, I can find. Rober Primer, I cannot. Google doesn't spit anything out there. I have a good urethane primer (filler) from DuPont that I like.

    Thanks again for the advise!!
    DaveK
     

  5. messabout
    Joined: Jan 2006
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    Location: Lakeland Fl USA

    messabout Senior Member

    DaveK;
    I am an old time Windmiller with casual experience with the US1. The US1 is an absolute bearcat. Few sailors ever sailed them to their potential. It can be described as a man mangler. That is probably why the class never really took hold in a big way.
    Don't even think of rounding the chines. If anything sharpen them in the aft half of the boat. These things will plane like demons in 10 knots. At twenty knots you should have put it on the trailer an hour ago. If you think the lee bow is hooking you need to move aft in the boat. Get the nose up in those conditions or the boat will hunt. It is not above pitching you into the drink if the bow wallows. Going to windward in moderate air put the bow down a little but not when it's blowing hard. These boats MUST be sailed flat to get the performance potential. I have trapezed one of these things and it is chancey. I dont recommend the trap. The boat is skinny and treacherous.

    Your picture shows a bendy unarig. I dont think that is the original rig type at all. The Windmill class is alive if not altogether well. There may be a Mill fleet in Texas somewhere. If you want to locate Windmill sailors you can contact Dan Fontaine, Lakeland Florida. 863-648-0242. Dan is a good guy who can probably put you in touch with "Millers" and possibly US1 sailors. Ask Dan how to get in touch with Ethan at North Sails St. Petersburg. He will be the guy to give you the real low down on your boat.

    Best of luck. 20 knots NOOOOO !
     
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