Happiness is a sealed tight windshield in the pouring rain!

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by missinginaction, Sep 30, 2010.

  1. missinginaction
    Joined: Aug 2007
    Posts: 1,097
    Likes: 248, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 512
    Location: New York

    missinginaction Senior Member

    Thank you CDK and Apex1 for the tip on the Sika 206 g+p and the Sika 292.

    Remember when I asked for advise on my glazing in June?

    Well, my cabin is complete and because of some pending work in the boatyard I've removed my covering so the boat is exposed to the elements for the first time.

    It's pouring rain here (they expect about 4-5 inches or perhaps 10 cm over the next day). I decided to leave the boat open and see how it would do.

    Absolutely no leaks anywhere in the cabin area!!!!!

    I would not have known about these two products had I not asked on this forum. I'll post a few photos when the weather clears.

    While my cabin is doing great, I do have some issues with the hull deck joint.

    SInce you were so helpful with the windshield perhaps you'd both be good enough to weigh in on this.

    The hull/deck joint is simple enough, the deck overlaps the topside and I followed the original build by placing a clamp along the inside of the joint about 4 cm square for the deck and the fiberglass topside to be attached to. I bedded the hull and the deck to the clamp with 3m 5200 and secured with silicon bronze #10 screws. I could actually reuse most of the original clamps, but I epoxied them just to be sure they wouldn't deteriorate.

    Silverton used a nice extruded aluminum rail to cover the hull deck joint. Of course in 1973 they didn't have very good sealents. The rail extends about 2.75 cm horizontally over the edge of the deck and down about 4 cm covering the topside.

    Many screws were used to secure the rail. SInce the deck is all new there are no screw holes there, but the top of the topsides is full of screw holes. So we have a lot of leaks there.

    The original builder used a 5 cm wide piece of fiberglass tape to seal the edge. This actually worked pretty well. I'm inclined after my windshield success to use sealants.

    It seems that 292 g+p is more suited for glass. Do you have a recommendation for sealing aluminum to fiberglass and a polyeurethane painted deck?

    Thanks again gentleman for the great advise on the cabin/windshield construction and sealing. I was actually able to construct the entire windshield using no fasteners at all!

    BTW, for anyone thinking of doing this......I used Sika 292 on my windshield with Sika 206 g+p as an adhesive primer. I also used Sika 206 g+p in other areas of my cabin as a primer for 3M 5200. All of these products worked well together. I did notice that the Sika 292 was slightly more viscus (thicker) than the 3M 5200. The Sika product stayed in a vertical joint where the 3M 5200 tended to run out. On the other hand if I was working with gravity and wanted the sealant to flow into a joint or cavity the 5200 was superior in that application.

    Regards,

    MIA
     
  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    If it was me, I'd use a two piece wooden sheer cap to cover the edge of the deck and hide the deck/hull joint. Naturally, this is an opportunity to make a visual statement with some varnish and it's common to see them in mahogany or teak. It's likely sealed up good from the 5200 bedding, but it's nice to finish it off with a bit of finish carpentry. Do you have a picture of the area?
     
  3. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    Congratulation MIA.

    I am not the specialist on hull / deck joints, donĀ“t know 3M5200 etc.

    So leave me aout for this round please.

    Regards
    Richard

    Ahh, I see Paul appeared on the scene, good.
     
  4. missinginaction
    Joined: Aug 2007
    Posts: 1,097
    Likes: 248, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 512
    Location: New York

    missinginaction Senior Member

    I'll post a photo once the rain stops. The hull deck joint isn't finished (which is why it leaks, of course). I just want to proceed as I did with the cabin and make the best, permanent waterproof installation that I can. For now I temporarily taped it up, just to keep the rainwater out of the interior.

    MIA
     

  5. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,133
    Likes: 494, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Duct tape comes in several stylish colors, so don't be ashamed to adorn the sheer with a few stripes of pride.
     
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