Gunnels For Boat, What Wood To Use?

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by elioti, Oct 2, 2008.

  1. elioti
    Joined: Feb 2008
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    Location: Devon, England

    elioti Junior Member

    hi there, i need to replace the gunnels on a 34 ft grp motorboat. They are currently oak, but rotten. Whats the best wood to replace them with, oak?, heard iroko can split? There are three layers of 1 inch thick by 5 inches. Also any advice where to get the wood in the u.k? Any advice much appreciated!
     
  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    English oak is much different then the white and live oak used here in the USA. Which is on your boat?

    The hardwood you should consider may need the following requirements: rot resistant species, dense heartwood, preferably with an interlocking grain that resists splitting or checking, fastener holding power, a species that receives glue well, clear and straight grained stock, flat sawn will wear better if not chafe strip is used, but quarter sawn will be dimensionally more stable and better looking, a species that machines well, etc.

    As to where you might find some of this mystery wood, check with the locals down at the near by marinas and boat shops. They'll know what is commonly used, is available and more importantly will have suggestions about which species work best and why. Bring pastry in the morning (old boatbuilding trick), you'll get much better cooperation.
     
  3. thudpucker
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    thudpucker Senior Member

    What about using Marine Plywood. 3/4" should do.
    If your going to paint it or put the Non-skid stuff on it, what would it matter whether the grain showed?
     
  4. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Plywood makes for a lousy rub rail. It doesn't willingly bend to the compound curves found on most boats, it's not especially tough when compared to a nice hardwood rub, it requires a fair amount of additional effort to finish off, the end grain will always be a point of moisture entry and it's not as strong longitudinally as solid lumber of similar species.
     

  5. thudpucker
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    thudpucker Senior Member

    Excuse me, I didn't know he was talking about a rub rail. I was thinking of the Decking on the edge where you walk fore n' afte alongside the cabin.

    What would make a good cheap rub rail would be limbs. The lower limbs of some hardwood trees are fairly long, long enough to get six feet or so, and if you split them in half, you get double.
    Then comes the wood preservative etc.

    Some Crab pot rub rails have Hardwood planks with Split limbs for the skidders.
     
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