fuel return line?

I don't believe that there are ANY chemosynthetic algae, let alone in a tank of diesel. I believe you are confusing "algae" with the "bacteria" growing on the diesel/water interface of a tank.
Okay, Chedder. Let's try this a different way. Install a bulk separator such as a Fleetguard FS 1218 before the filtration you have now. Install a DRAG POINTER vacuum gauge after your last filter before the on-engine filter. After every day, you will check the gauge's highest vacuum and change the bulk filter when the vacuum starts to climb. If the vacuum STAYS high, change the next filter, which is a two. The filter comes with a drain from which you will take a bit of fuel every morning - just like an airplane, to remove water. If you have a lot of water, as possibly indicated by the junk in your tanks, install a FS 19596 after the 1218 and check it daily, as well. DON'T wait until you notice water in the Racor, if you have one of those - You shud get in the habit of proper maintenance now, before you buy a newer engine that cannot accept any water. The two micron filter on your engine shud remain clean nearly forever - never let junk and water get to it - you'll need this practice for when you buy a more modern diesel.
This filter, the FS 1218, will accept a ton of crud and prevent your later filters from clogging up so fast. Keep killing, keep using, and it will effectively clean your tank the more you use it. Still, you need to pick up your fuel at the lowest part of your tanks. Is this the answer you were looking for?

 

Okay. Okay. Okay.

I like everybody's comments and they are greatly appreciated.

Mark, I am running Baldwin storage tank filters on 1 inch inlet and outlet filter heads. There are two filters with bypass valves so i actually run only run one filter at a time. Would that compare to the fleetguard filter. I checked the Fleetguard site and the filter does not look much different other that the petcock. The Baldwin filter does not have drain but im sure one could be found.

I have the vacuum gauge on the primary filter and it is checked hourly when ever waves are present.

does it answer the question. No. I was wanting to know if my engine would blow up putting the return line back in the secondary filter instead of the tank.

 

No, it will not. It may lose HP but will not blow up. As far as the other filter - I think so, I know the one I posted can absorb A LOT of junk. Good luck.

 

That is fully correct.

This particular strain of bacteria festers on organic sulfur compounds in the diesel fuel but can live only in water, where they build protein gossamer and release SO2.

The process is terminated with a few drops of bleach added to the fuel, but the sticky protein stuff still has to be removed.

 

Does that mean the problem will be reduced if you burn the extreme low sulfur diesel fuel?

 

No, I guess not, the bacteria will still find enough sulfur to proliferate, especially in a large fuel tank. Robbing them of their aqueous environment will stop the process, but that sounds easier than it is.

Last week I spoke with a desperate boat owner who experienced a stalled engine within minutes after filling up his tank. He said there was no water visible in the separator/filter but it turned out to be all water in the glass. We pumped out approx half a gallon before the first drops of diesel appeared.

This is bound to happen if you are the early morning customer and the attendant doesn't know he is supposed to remove the collected overnight condensation before filling tanks.

 

Thanks Mark for the ideas and answering the big question.

CDK- I will try the bleach when I wash my tank out with water like Hoyt said to do.

 

Just remember I said to fill the tank to the very top with water to drive out all flammable material.

 

I wouldn't. Running the fuel in a short loop like that may cause it to heat up too much causing damage to your engines injectors.

 

AGREE!! The purpose of running 3x to 5x the fuel burn thru the system is to REMOVE heat, by dumping it back in the supply tank.

DO NOT short circuit (re engineer) a 1936 design that has been working very well for 70 years!

FF

 

It doesn't pump 2 to 3 times the fuel. I don't remember how much but not two to three times, and it doesn't internalize the fuel and draw off heat like a modern diesel. I'm pretty sure the only problem wud be to lose HP unless one of you is a Jimmy pro and can counterdict me on that from experience.

 

If this really is a 1936 design, anything is possible.

But a more recent diesel has the fuel return line mainly because the injectors leak and the most logical place to dump it is in the fuel tank.

Mechanical injection pumps use the internal pressure to adjust their timing; the pump feeds a little bit more than is required, the return line has only a very narrow, calibrated nozzle.
VW, Audi and Mercedes normally return the excess fuel to the filter, but have a thermostatic valve there to allow some fuel to go all the way to the tank if a certain temperature (usually 55 C.) is exceeded. From that fact I conclude that warm fuel is better than cold, otherwise they wouldn't have spent money on a thermostatic valve.

 

Putting the return back into the filter is definately a no no.
The GM is using the fuel flow to cool the injectors and also being self bleeding you have now trapped any air as it cannot get back to the tank.

If you want to see how much is returned just drop the return into a bucket at idle, its like your garden hose.

Most large horsepower GM installations in powerboats have fuel coolers as well

 

":its like your garden hose." - not this engine.

 

Aren't we talking a 6 71 or is it something else?