For fun project

Discussion in 'Materials' started by Reefdog, Jun 16, 2019.

  1. Reefdog
    Joined: Jun 2019
    Posts: 23
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    Location: Key Largo

    Reefdog Junior Member

    Hello all,
    I am starting my 1974 16ft anglers project. I am not trying to make this a work of art. Just strong, and fun to go in shallow water with. I bought this boat 4 years ago for $300 and used the heck out of it the rotten condition that it was in. I am the third owner of this boat and there have already been a lot of bad repairs done to this boat. For example, the last owner replaced the floor with diamond plate and bondo.
    My plan is to replace the single stringer, place a new marine plywood floor, add a casting deck in the bow, and new transom. All this will be glassed in both sides with polyester resin 1708 and 1.5oz csm.
    Where I need some help is what do I cover all of the new glass with that is cheap and easy. Like I said, it doesn’t have to be perfect. Also, the outer paint on the hull needs a new coat. It seems like it’s paint over the glass and not gel coat. It’s very thin and worn out in places. Can anyone recommend a cheap product that can seal all of the new polyester resined glass and paint over the old outside paint?
     

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  2. Reefdog
    Joined: Jun 2019
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    Location: Key Largo

    Reefdog Junior Member

    The stringer in this boat is solid as a rock but I can see the rotten wood at both ends, for some reason they didn’t glass the ends in. I can’t tell if the stringer went all the way to the bow, because that part is so rotten. Can anyone advise me if I should bring the new stringer all the way to the bow and should I glass it to where the bow starts to curve up or just glass to the bottom?
     
  3. Reefdog
    Joined: Jun 2019
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    Location: Key Largo

    Reefdog Junior Member

    Pictures of what’s there, I’m guessing that someone already replaced this by adding new wood next to the old and glassing over it
     

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  4. Reefdog
    Joined: Jun 2019
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    Location: Key Largo

    Reefdog Junior Member

    Kinda looks like there is gel coat under the old fiberglass. Do I need to get this off or can I glass over it?
     

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  5. Reefdog
    Joined: Jun 2019
    Posts: 23
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    Location: Key Largo

    Reefdog Junior Member

    Any advice on the gelcoat under the glass? It’s that what it looks like to you? Will the new glass be ok to stick to that layer?
     
  6. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Looks like someone's glassed over gelcoat. It does represent a reduction in adhesion. I would grind it away.

    IMO, the original stringer did not extend all the way forward to the bow. Because the previous repair was done over gelcoat.

    It would not hurt to extend the stringer.
     
  7. Reefdog
    Joined: Jun 2019
    Posts: 23
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    Location: Key Largo

    Reefdog Junior Member

    Thanks Blueknarr,
    I will grind it away, seems like like whoever did the last repair didn’t do any grinding before the new glass. I think they painted over the original gel coat with cheap paint too. I’m getting there though
     
  8. Reefdog
    Joined: Jun 2019
    Posts: 23
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    Location: Key Largo

    Reefdog Junior Member

    Transom going in this week hopefully
     

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  9. Reefdog
    Joined: Jun 2019
    Posts: 23
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    Location: Key Largo

    Reefdog Junior Member

    Finally got the time to get the transom in, tabbing it in soon
     

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  10. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    Hello Reefdog... I think you need to take a get er done approach here. That boat is never going to get a fare, but can work well for fishing for you.

    So, my view.

    1. Grind out all loose or cracked up gelcoats where you intend to glass.

    2. Grind out the stringer tails that are rotten. Think like a dentist. Since you need to build them back up, I see little reason to not remove the rot and build a new section back in. If you can remove the rot fully; do so. If it extends really far in; then just remove enough to sheath in over the old stringer. Personally, I would use epoxy and two layers of 600/225, but I suppose you could use an ester as well. The epoxy will close them up forever. The 600/225 will work a bit nicer with esters. If you remove a bit too much wood; replace it with another piece of wood. I don't like putting good wood next to rotten wet stuff; so that would be a challenge for me. Once the wood is tabbed or bonded in; you can glass over it. It is a bit tricky to do good glass work up and over the entire stringer. It is better to tab each side all the way up to the edge and stagger the next tabs 25mm each side. So, for example, if the stringer is 150mm, the first tab width is 300, then 250, then 200. Then make sure you have a good radius on top of any new wood and place glass on the stringer tops in same fashion. Something like 600, 400, 200. Long first is less air entrainment and really best practice. Glass gets strength in thickness and good workmanship; not shingling.

    You asked me privately about grinding. I wear a tyvek suit and a face shield and a dust mask and gloves. This was taken yesterday before you asked. This was my suit to sand about 40 feet of new tapes only! I absolutely hate glass in my finger webs and it gets into them via my hair. Good news is glass dust is not a horrible carcinogen we are told. Bad news is grindings in the lung make lungs weaker for Covid19, so you need to avoid people while doing boat work amap, imo. I generally shower immediately after heavy grinding work as well. We will need a hazmat team to go thru when we are done and vac and wash the place inside. (me)

    For paint, I would use a porch or floor polyurethane with skid sand in it for walking areas. For the exterior; you might want to use something easy to apply. It is hard to tell how fine you plan to finish. A really fair surface looks nice in gloss. A rougher surface looks better a bit flatter sheen.

    ECB2B11B-CCD2-4E8E-943F-A084070EFE6A.jpeg

    This boat painted white is reflecting the snowbank next to it. No bottom paint yet. Look close and you can see a riding snowblower in the reflection.
    8BE7BE21-CDFC-4124-B79A-61600404C551.jpeg
     
  11. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    Also, the tabbing in should extend over the old stringer in similar fashion; something like 400,300,200 mm past the cutaway.

    Use a thixo to deal with any uneven areas of the repair, but don't use too much at a time or it can catch fire. I sort of won't go more than like 20mm square without building it up over 30 minute windows.

    And when you finish, there is a matter of my fee.

    probably need a picture of a barramundi or something you catch on that rig

    Make sure the transom isn't weak. There are sharks in the water I am told.
     

  12. Reefdog
    Joined: Jun 2019
    Posts: 23
    Likes: 0, Points: 1
    Location: Key Largo

    Reefdog Junior Member

    Thank you so much fallguy, I appreciate all of the help. I will post some pictures as it gets going. I am guessing that when I start removing the rot, I will end up taking out the whole thing.
    Thank you for all the advice
     
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