Fiberglass boat paint help

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Ando37, Mar 27, 2018.

  1. Ando37
    Joined: Mar 2018
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    Location: Cornwall Ontario

    Ando37 Junior Member

    hello first post on this forum. But as title says I have a 15 footer fiberglass runabout I would like to repaint the top part it’s white with 2 stripes. But I have no idea how to paint fiberglass. Is it different then painting a vehicle as u put primer paint then clear coat?
    If somebody can explain what wud be easier one part or two or gel coat. I just wanna paint it white but idk if I need under coat anti fouling or any of this I see on Internet.
    Thank you in advance.
     
  2. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    Post pics
     
  3. ondarvr
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    What's the goal other than to be white, best possible job, cheap, something in between?

    Rustolium from the box store works, add the hardener and it works even better, it's about the same as many of the 1 part marine paints. Then you move on to automotive paints of various types, or move right into high end marine, the latter two can get very expensive.

    All of them come with directions on how they should be used for best results, and they will be different for each type.
     
  4. Ando37
    Joined: Mar 2018
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    Location: Cornwall Ontario

    Ando37 Junior Member

    Yea something in between because it’s the top side where ppl will see and there’s two stripes I would like to paint blue to match the bottom. I didn’t know u can use rustoleum I thought there had to be a certain kind u can only use on fiberglass

    I will add pics later today
     
  5. ondarvr
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    Gel coat makes an excellent substrate for just about any coating, no special paint is needed.
     
  6. Ando37
    Joined: Mar 2018
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    Location: Cornwall Ontario

    Ando37 Junior Member

    Isn’t gel coat expensive? And can I get it just about anywheres?
     
  7. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Welcome to the forum.

    Gel coat is more than paint, though also tougher too. It's not easy to apply, if doing so in your driveway or garage, though a whole color redo may turn out better than the average backyard job. It's a lot easier to get good results with paint, for the novice refinisher. A good single part polyurethane or an LPU, if setup to spray, will produce the best results, particularly the sprayed LPU. You can roll and tip an LPU also, though it'll be a bit less smooth than a sprayed job, you can always go back and buff it smooth, once good and dry.
     
  8. Ando37
    Joined: Mar 2018
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    Location: Cornwall Ontario

    Ando37 Junior Member

    I found this oil based paint guy said it would work I think tremclad but I thought I’d ask about it first I’m just doin the top part nothing that’s gonna be in the water. So is themclad a decent paint to do top with?
    Also I was wondering I’m gonna be prepping my boat outside under leantoo but if I and rain gets on it will the fiberglass absorb into it n ruin it?
     
  9. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Naturally, you don't want to paint in the rain, though if you must, just keep the rain off the work. Oil based paints will be the least durable of them all, so select wisely. I've never heard of that particular brand, you should check to see if it's not just a rebadged product (made by another manufacture, just re-labeled). Use a good quality primer, preferably epoxy based for best stick and durability. Hang a tarp to keep any rain off the work, until it's dry.
     
  10. ondarvr
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    I'm not sure why you would want to pick a paint designed to be applied to rusty metal.

    Normal rustoleum works if you want to go cheap. They even make a marine topside paint, but I don't know if it's any different than their normal paint.
     
  11. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Rustoleum marine topside paint seems to be little more than their "industrial" paint. It's a straight alkyd and fairly tough, though does seem to lose gloss pretty quickly it can be buffed to restore it, to a degree.
     
  12. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Ando

    Have you tried buffing the existing finish?
    If all of the color is there, no chips, scratches or gouges, and the color is only faded, chalky but otherwise non-offensive, then painting may not be needed.
     
  13. ondarvr
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    The hardener is supposed to improve their products a great deal, but I haven't used it.

    It has a cult like following for the low cost DIY guys. (The standard product that is)
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2018
  14. Ando37
    Joined: Mar 2018
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    Location: Cornwall Ontario

    Ando37 Junior Member

    It is a white color but it has spots all over from sitting awhile I was gonna sand it n prepare before I even tried to paint but I think definitely needs a touch up. I was researching a little n it says to use 60- 200 grit sandpaper but then others say 60 is to rough n will leave marks n have to be filled. I just wanna remove the spots n get that top little layer of old paint off would 60 be to rough should I get 100-120?
    I’m going tomorrow to check on some good automotive paint maybe use that instead of Home Depot brands.

    I keep forgetting to put pics up will tomorrow if nice.
     

  15. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    The sand paper will depend on the primer, and if you use one. 60 is coarse and most paint won't hide those scratches, 180-220 is normally safer. Most Primers will hide deeper scratches
     
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