fairey hunt 18

to resurface the mould i used duratec surfacing primer and then duratec topcoat in clear with black pigment added to it.

it was quite easy to use and seeing it was the first time i used it all went well.

i had to use a 2.5mm nozzle on my spray gun to apply the primer and it worked a treat.

topcoat i used a 1.5mm nozzle which worked well too.

 

over the years i done some one off decks but made them out of glass panels !! if you use ply ? think the same !!!!but 450 csm 5 mm core mat and 450 csm will give you a reasonably stiff panel to work with and shape , Can make the panels almost to size and theres not a lot of waste. its quick its easy and at the end have a solid glass deck not wood any where . once set in place i use thin ply for bracing and hot glue in place can use auto filler to stick the panels or just a layer of csm arcoss joins !!.
When all is fitted ans stuck glass the outside with good glass and peel ply the surface then lift it off and roll it over and glass the underside side can fit cores etc etc and what ever else ply pads for mounting things etc etc then finish glassing and again peel ply the whole surface . then its ready sit the deck back on the boat ready to be sanded faired and painted !!,can even gelcoat if you want or2 pot urethane it . Done nicely it can look like the real thing and no one knows it didnt come out of a mould !
The last deck i did was a 18 foot centre console boat with a motor bracket . Deck took me just over 2 weeks totally finished made it all by myself had all the side decks going down inside with side pockets for rods and foredeck with anchor well and bow sprit with electric winch , side decks had rolled up edges to stip water from coming in etc etc
Non slip deck tread done off an old mould had laying about !.was just what the owner wanted , was all his own ideas built in and was just about impossible to tell it didnt come out of a mould .
Used a standard off the shelf fender strip round the gunnel and fittings and glassed the hull to the deck inside
With Hot glue and glass panels can make anything any shape just use your imagination .
As a starting place make the top 4 inchs of the mould make the gunnal cut at the bow if need to and flip it over onto the hull has a flange and a starting point to build from the mould !!already has the flang done and could be a place to start from !! Just use your imagination a little , what ever you were going to make from ply use glass instead !! one less exspence to foot

 

Thanks mate, it looks like a very professional job you've done, the whole thing actually. That boat looks so much like the old hulls made here in Australia in the 60's and 70's as "Haines Hunter", uncanny resemblance obviously off the R Hunt drawing board as well.

 

i've got a plan for making the gunnel plug. im going to use 6mm mdf and softwood timbers as i have lots spare.

i know the shape i want to create so fingers crossed it will be pretty easy to do.

im going to give myself 2 weeks to get the plug all finished and then i can take a mould off it.

only thing stopping me at the moment is work. got to work over the weekend and the earliest i can make a start will be wednesday next week.

i've got the hatch gutters to make as well so i'll be doing those in the evenings if i don't finish work late.

 

no worries mate.

have you got any pics of the Haines Hunter? would be nice to see how close it is to looking like mine.

 

The web has heaps of pics of more modern Haines Hunters, but those of the older style of split-mould build like yours are getting rare. I'd say the cut-off date would be mid 70's. They were basically called V15,V17,V19 models, but so like yours it ain't funny.
If you can access this link you'll see what I mean:
http://www.nzjetboating.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=21842.0

 

i see what you mean about them mate. they look almost identical.

do you know what the performance of the V19 was like? will give me some idea of what mine will be like once its built.

 

Fish scaleing and Lapping glass layers is very important !

On a boat your size is best to run glass longwaystarting from the keel and working towards the chine running for and aft is easier to lay and the length of laps is smaller if you are thinking of weight , If you run glass athawrtships start at the front and work aft .its call fish scale effect and in the case of running into anything has more hope of gleancing off and not digging into the joins of the glass and tearing the layers apart like pages in a book .THis is what we been doing this for years and have know about the fish scale thing since the 1970 but is only in recent times some one has got the ibright dea and called it there own was just one of the hundreds of unwrittne laws of glass building boat hulls and other things !.
Also fill all strakes when your building !The 3 corners create a weak point and is always a place where the bottom cracks and eventually moves and the laminates of glass eventually separate and allow water to get in. . Fill all these places and are trouble no more ,they help to make the bottom become stiffer when they are filled . so remember to use good glass and a couple of extra layers for good measure , then fill with high density foam core or balsa and level off the top lay 450 csm and a 200 mm wide woven roving strip over to hold it together and then your hull glassing goes over the top . when glass is laid straight fore and aft its at its strongest and gives a much more ridged panel , Remember woven is more flexable!! the same glass weight only in a stitched fabric will give a even more ridged panel so simply changing of glass type can help make the hull stiff and a little harder riding or semi flexable and slightly softer riding . These are some of the unwritten things few people even thinkabout , only well seasoned enthusiastic people know about . mass production builders dont care !!. Over laps in the keel should be a minimum of 200 mm wide and the chine 100 mm , 50 up 50 down always doubling in places where its best used !!,the bottom layers also go up the transom 100 mm and the transom layer comes down into the hull and 100 long the bottom Inside !!, again to help prevent the delamination of the transom layers should you hit and tear the layers to the back .

 

They were pretty popular and well-regarded in their time, I wouldn't expect you'll encounter any handling vices, may not be the driest boat though.

 

had a free day today so i got the gutters trimmed up and fitted.

going to make a start on making the hatch lids tomorrow and hopefully have them trimmed up and in the holes on saturday.

 

I hope the tanks are not sitting on the bottom of the hull !!!!
they need to be supported up off the hull at least 30 mm or even more ! you would be amased at how much hulls flex and bend and if the tank touchs all the push goes onto the tak holdowns and the tank its self .

 

the tanks sits on its own beds so not sitting on the hull.

i've got to fit some rubber to the top of the supports so that the tank dosen't wear any flowcoat away and then it can have 2 straps fitted to hold it down.

 

Have seen a couple of boats were the tanks sat on the bottom and they wondered what the strange noise was as the boat was going along on one of them and the other one used to break the 2x2 timber the guy had to hold it down with over the top But it was on 1/4 rubber!! but the whole tank was trying to get out of the hole it was in .

 

made a start on the hatch lids today. got them gelled up and 2 layers of mat on.

ran out of resin so got to get some more in the morning along with some plywood.

 

whats the plan of attach for the hatch lay up ??? what do you antisapate using and how ??:?: