epoxy mix

Discussion in 'Materials' started by gregpage, Feb 4, 2011.

  1. gregpage
    Joined: Feb 2011
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    Location: Bear valley,CA

    gregpage New Member

    I am building a cold molded inboard runabout, which will emulate the older varnished mahogany boats built by chris craft, century, etc. The final layer is mahogany veneer (1/8" x 4-1/2") which will be splied. Is there an additive to the epoxy mix that will conceal any slight gaps between adjacent veneers?
     
  2. Landlubber
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: Brisbane

    Landlubber Senior Member

    "which will emulate the older varnished mahogany boats built by chris craft, century, etc"..did not have "gaps", they get their reputation from fine joiner amongst other things...do it once and do it right.
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Well, leave it to the lubber to use diplomacy and politically correct mannerisms to help a fellow out. He's right, if you want a varnished piece of art, you have to learn how to edge match with precision. Veneer work is fairly straight forward, take your time, cut over size and hack it back until it fits properly.

    You can use a pigment or wood flour with the epoxy to help hid flaws, but this isn't the way an inlay artist or mahogany boat builder would do it, though I see no reason why you couldn't avail yourself of this trick. In all honesty, you'll regret any "putty" in the seams, as it's very difficult to get it to look "right". In other words, "Mickey Moused" seams will look Mickey Moused.
     
  4. bntii
    Joined: Jun 2006
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    Location: MD

    bntii Senior Member

    The problem with a project like this is you will 'clean up your act' by the time you get 1/2 the boat done..
    I would start the build with a high standard for fit on the lower veneers. As you work towards the surface you should be able to get your routines to the point where the work has no visible gaps. Try to start well- keep the veneers fair and watch how much edge set you throw into them. With work like this the line will telegraph on each successive plank making you re-fight a unfair set for the rest of the side.

    Have the right tools on hand- a good surface to lay out on, sharp planes, knives and straight edges. Get some stock to use as spiling planks and a decent compass. Get the work to fit perfectly with a door skin template. then transfer over to the mahogany stock with a fine pen.
    Cut the long taper on a plank first allowing excess to lay over on the other end- learn how to scribe to fit at the 'lay over end'.
    Till you get in the swing of things, don't cut on the line and end up short- cut long and trim to get a perfect fit: "leave the line"...
    Have extra stock made up so you can toss any bad cuts and still have enough to finish the job.
     

  5. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    The Gougeon brothers (west system) give you the right advice how to cut veneers for a perfect fit in cold moulding. Search their website for the manual.

    And of course there are NO gaps to fill when done properly.

    Regards
    Richard
     
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