Drive option

Discussion in 'Surface Drives' started by crowsridge, Nov 27, 2011.

  1. crowsridge
    Joined: Apr 2010
    Posts: 141
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 15
    Location: Eugene, Oregon

    crowsridge Senior Member

    Hello,

    I have a project Im working on and need ideas. I picked up a 20' (previous military) aluminum sled. Its very stout and no corrosion in this hull. Working on removing the camo paint. The yellow is aluminum oxide primer and is tough stuff!

    It had been modified with a Berkeley/Olds 455 jet setup. The motor was bad and on a pallet. It has no leaks in any of the rivets. (Filled with rain water before I pulled the pump.)

    The stern is 26" tall and straight up and down (needs 14*). Too tall for OB except jet pump version. But that would take a 200hp OB jet unit.
    Big $$$$$$

    Yesterday, I saw a boat being built on this forum. I could modify mine similar to that one. Cut my transom down like this one, cover drop down ( swim platform/kicker bracket too) and replace cutoff transom material forward of the platform across the top. Battery storage etc under.

    Another option I like is keeping it inboard as a tunnel or Levi type system. I read threads until 2 am this morning and like this option best I think. This link to Levi has the info and is what I have in mind. http://www.levidrives.com/index.php/sample-page/ld-170/levi-drive-ld-170-150-tested-on-25-foot-boat

    Their test boat is a bit heavier, but close enough for comparisons. The small diesel is great too.


    Opinions? Thanks for looking, Chris
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 27, 2011
  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,817
    Likes: 1,726, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    A bracket would be quite easy to install and you can adjust it to whatever height is ideal.
     
  3. crowsridge
    Joined: Apr 2010
    Posts: 141
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 15
    Location: Eugene, Oregon

    crowsridge Senior Member

    Hi Gonzo,

    That is very true. A couple points on that I have to deal with. In fact, I picked up a bracket for that purpose. But. There are a ton of rivets across the back. Many are flush, but many (50 or so) are round and some are 3/4" dia. They happen to fall right where the bracket goes too. I still need to fab over the holes and reinforce the transom to carry the load and deal with the rivet issue.

    To run in our shallow rivers, I would still have to buy the 200 with a jet. The 115 merc I have now wouldnt push it with a pump. Thats why Im asking about the tunnel and Levi.

    Thanks, Chris
     

    Attached Files:

    • 029.jpg
      029.jpg
      File size:
      283.9 KB
      Views:
      532
  4. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,817
    Likes: 1,726, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    A plywood spacing pad with notches drilled at the rivets would solve the problem. How bad is the pump? A used inboard engine to fit it would not be so expensive.
     
  5. crowsridge
    Joined: Apr 2010
    Posts: 141
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 15
    Location: Eugene, Oregon

    crowsridge Senior Member

    The pump was like brand new. But I got soooo much flack over the "old inefficient pumps" I took it out and sold both units I had. The 455 Olds is toast and a monster. I have a 100 hp diesel, but its too small for the Brekeley. But its twice the size of the Levi unit in the test link I posted. Seems like a decent option.

    I suppose I could do the plywood option. Encapsulate it in epoxy. But I still have to fab over the holes and then buy the big o.b. and jet pump.

    The 14* mount for the pump would be just right for the Levi type.Then seal the intake hole. I could use one, or I suppose both of the exhaust ports and deal with those holes that way.???
     
  6. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,817
    Likes: 1,726, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    You can rivet aluminum plate over the holes. They make blind pop rivets.
     
  7. philSweet
    Joined: May 2008
    Posts: 2,697
    Likes: 461, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 1082
    Location: Beaufort, SC and H'ville, NC

    philSweet Senior Member

    Before you do anything else, find out if that's a strontium chromate primer. If you can't find out- treat it as if it is. You can download MSDS and procedures from the web.
     
  8. crowsridge
    Joined: Apr 2010
    Posts: 141
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 15
    Location: Eugene, Oregon

    crowsridge Senior Member

    Thanks. I had already checked into that. Fortunatly, the liquid stripper takes off the top coats perfectly and leaves the primer untouched. No sanding will be needed this way.

    Inside is getting Line-X and paint outside. Im even contemplating vinyl wrap for the outside and not painting at all.
     
  9. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,817
    Likes: 1,726, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    What is vinyl wrap?
     
  10. crowsridge
    Joined: Apr 2010
    Posts: 141
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 15
    Location: Eugene, Oregon

    crowsridge Senior Member

    Most of the aluminum boats with color sides are vinyl now. If you see vehicles running around that appear to be wrapped in an ad etc? Thats vinyl. Small nicks can be regenerated with a heat gun. So says the shop anyway. Ive seen all kinds of designs. You could make it look like you drove through a flag and its waving in the wind or ad for your buddies business. Endless really.
     
  11. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,817
    Likes: 1,726, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    That sounds like a good idea. Do you need to prime first? I wonder if salt water would corrode the metal under the vinyl.
     
  12. crowsridge
    Joined: Apr 2010
    Posts: 141
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 15
    Location: Eugene, Oregon

    crowsridge Senior Member

    All the big fish boat builders are using it now from what the boat dealers and also the graphics shop I went to.

    I wouldnt think it would get behind it. If it tears, its exposing in just that space. A lot of businesses here wrap their vehicles in them. I guess its the same way theyre putting graphics on police cars now too. The graphics guy said theres no limit to what he can create. If you get tired of it, it will cone off.
     
  13. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,817
    Likes: 1,726, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    I like it
     
  14. crowsridge
    Joined: Apr 2010
    Posts: 141
    Likes: 4, Points: 18, Legacy Rep: 15
    Location: Eugene, Oregon

    crowsridge Senior Member

    Back to the tunnel or Levi. I had an old boat guy by one day. He said to move things further forwaed in this boat. Thats okay for my wish too. sittimg on engine cover behind center console works for me.

    Which would perform better? A tunnel in place of the existing hole or Levi type equipment?
     

  15. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,817
    Likes: 1,726, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    Moving the machinery forward may make the boat bow heavy. It may plow and oversteer. Also, it may end up broaching downwind.
     
Loading...
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.