Direct female molding

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by groper, Feb 3, 2012.

  1. groper
    Joined: Jun 2011
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    Location: australia

    groper Senior Member

    well it works...
    [​IMG]

    it will need fairing as the surface of the mold wasnt very good, however it provided the shape i needed and allowed me to infuse both inside and outside laminate in 1 shot. So despite the fairing, its still a reasonably quick way of getting the end product... No strip planking or secondary bonding, setting up frames and turning it over and doing the other side etc etc
     
  2. hambamble
    Joined: Jul 2012
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    Location: Gold Coast, Australia

    hambamble Junior Member

    Nice work! How long did it take to infuse? Where exactly were the infusion points? its a bit hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like a lines running down each radius in the bottom of the hull, and the vacuum lines at the top on each side?

    Is it out of the mold yet, i'd love to see how the hull came out, tempted to do a similar method with the direct female mold build
     
  3. Herman
    Joined: Oct 2004
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    Location: The Netherlands

    Herman Senior Member

    I totally got lost of this thread, but here it is again. Nice work! What did you do with the mould after the glass was laminated on? Faired / bogged and coated?

    You will probably be able to get it out by pulling the sides inwards.
     
  4. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    thats great !! and the cutting and wrapping of panels worked ok ??
    It very pleasing to see !! :D
     
  5. groper
    Joined: Jun 2011
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    Location: australia

    groper Senior Member

    I put on a skin coat of glass by hand and let it cure under peel ply. Vacuum sealed ok.
    Tore off the peel ply and began the layup straight over. Corecell on the sides and bottom with just solid glass along the radius's. Yes resin lines along here also.

    Vacuum lines at the top and also closest to the camera on the bottom to prevent a void between the resin lines in the middle. Took about 20 mins to infuse. Will be using more temporary molds like this in the future as it allows me to infuse both sides in one shot for speed and less infusion constables used.
     
  6. groper
    Joined: Jun 2011
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    Location: australia

    groper Senior Member

    This is how the part came out of the mold, ive sanded it ready to start fairing;
    [​IMG]

    the inside with yellow peel ply still on;
    [​IMG]

    and heres a pic of the layup;
    [​IMG]

    And heres a pic of the 2 halves pushed together, checking fitment before taping togeather;
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Herman
    Joined: Oct 2004
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    Location: The Netherlands

    Herman Senior Member

    Nice!
     
  8. gypsy28
    Joined: Mar 2010
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    Location: NSW Australia

    gypsy28 Senior Member

    looks like a great way to build a hull, and light too, unless you're an olympic weightlifter ;)
    any idea what that bow section actually weighs?

    DAVE
     

  9. groper
    Joined: Jun 2011
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    Location: australia

    groper Senior Member

    yes, 25.2kgs for the front section im holding on my shoulder... the rear section its joined to is 65kgs...

    Pros are; able to infuse both sides in 1 shot, saving time and infusion consumables.

    Cons are; mold is not fair so still need to fair the part (albeit very little), and takes a little time and money to build the temporary mold...

    The next one of these im going to build from timber battens, staple core-flute board (realestate signs) over the top, and cover it with a stickyback plastic film (full width sticky tape roll). Aiming to infuse the entire top deck over using the bulkheads as the former frames. More pics tomorro in my build thread here :) http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/bo...displacement-powercat-38588-8.html#post566830
     
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