deck glass repair - thickness?

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Burnsy, Mar 10, 2008.

  1. Burnsy
    Joined: Apr 2005
    Posts: 10
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: MI

    Burnsy Junior Member

    I'm repairing some areas of deck on a 33' race-oriented sailboat from above. 3/8" Balsa core. I've ground out the bevel in delam areas and replaced bad core, now I'm about to lay some 10 ounce cloth with West System epoxy. My understanding is cloth can be used exclusively when using epoxy. Planning on a hand lay with or w/o release fabric.

    Boat is originally made of e-glass & kevlar w/ epoxy. Original deck skin appears to vary from fairly thin (appears to be 1 layer of mat?) to at least a few layers thick in some areas.

    Any rough rules of thumb on how many layers of 10 oz should do the trick? Keep adding until the repair is up about level with old deck? Or one, two, or a few is typically plenty then fair over with low density?

    Deck will be finished with paint and new nonskid.

    Thanks, I see variations of this question have been posted ad nauseum. I've got the Don Casey book, but of course can't find it when I need it.
     
  2. the1much
    Joined: Jul 2007
    Posts: 3,897
    Likes: 44, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 696
    Location: maine

    the1much hippie dreams

    id stay with the original thickness,,unless you thick the last 1 wasnt enough,,im pretty sure the dudes that read got all kinds of rules and so on,,hehe,,im kinda like a fisherman glasser,,refused to learn the specs. hehe,,;) are you still gonna use it for racing?,, because then weight of your repair will come into hand.,and you may need it a "little' thicker then the original if your not using kev. again ,,but however much thicker or thinner you go means fairing,and mud is heavy. and even under non-skid,,you'll see lots.
     
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