Cold Molding Details and Tricks

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Thumper, Jan 15, 2007.

  1. Thumper
    Joined: Jan 2007
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    Location: Hawaii

    Thumper If it's wet, do it!

    New to this forum so bear with me.

    I have an international 110 (1 5/8" o.d. hard chines near 90 degrees)

    I will be re-skinning the boat originally 3/8" Marine ply. I am thinking of using 1/4" ply on the sides and deck and then 1/8" diagonal western red cedar (or mahogany) from centerline of the deck diagonally back over the chine (1 1/2") then diagonally down to the lower chine.

    Questions:
    1) Am I crazy?
    2) Can it be done? If so, how
    3) Steam bend?

    Any input is greatly appreciated.
     
  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    Plywood is laminated wood. Why do you want to build thicker plywood onsite? If 3/8" was the original thickness it is crazy to use a thinner plywood and then make it thicker.
     
  3. Thumper
    Joined: Jan 2007
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    Location: Hawaii

    Thumper If it's wet, do it!

    For Looks! The finish from waterline up would be clear with a "V" seam at deck center and grain running aft and down. The boat would be very cool!

    As a sidebar the deck and sides would be stiffer with the epoxy.
     
  4. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    The epoxy won't do anything for rigidity. Factory plywood is glued at high pressure. Unless you vacuum bag the glue thickness will force you to use a thinner veneer to end up at 3/8". If you wat the look, it can be done but the weight will be more than plywood
     
  5. Thumper
    Joined: Jan 2007
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    Location: Hawaii

    Thumper If it's wet, do it!

    Does anyone build anything without vacuum bagging these days? Remember e glass?

    Back to my original question, does anyone have experience with laminating over a 1 1/2 radius? Or over a hard chine at an angle?

    Thanks.
     
  6. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I have considerable laminating experience, but you'll not get your proposed material to make that radius. I've done vacuum bagging, but not a bunch, mostly parts fabrication.

    If you want the look, you should consider double planking with 3/16" sheet or veneer or stronger yet to mold with three layers of 1/8" veneer. The radius is just too tight to go around without resorting to a much thinner veneer and a pretty harsh angle of incidence.

    It's a hard chine design, so you'll be hard pressed to soften this design feature very much, without rebuilding the chine logs. You could strip plank the chine area only, then skin her how ever you wish, but you'll likely alter, possible ruin her sailing qualities.

    If you're after just the bright finish, just skin her with a very thin veneer and toss some varnish on her, screw the chines, paint the bottom, it's underwater anyway.
     
  7. Thumper
    Joined: Jan 2007
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    Location: Hawaii

    Thumper If it's wet, do it!

    Par,

    Thanks for the feedback. You have reinforced what I thought the answer is but did not want to admit to. I guess the plan will be 1/4" marine ply backing to and 1/8" veneer of the flats with a new outer chine log (110's have a 2-pc chine log). It will still give me the bright woody look with a lot less work.

    I'll post some pics but it'll will be awhile.

    Aloha!
     

  8. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,126
    Likes: 498, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Sounds like a plan, go for it and the pictures would be very welcome. Good Luck . . .
     
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