CNC Plans not Included

This is your area of expertise, I don't know why you don't engineer a solution that is better than Torqeedo. Below are some of the issues Torqeedo addresses on their website... As to the seals, that makes me nervous ... I mean the lower unit seals on my outboard keep water out at 6000 rpm but if water does get in no big deal, on electric it would be an immediate problem. So it might be better to keep the motor in the boat and simply have the prop belt driven using the same setup I have shown. The seals would be above the waterline and the whole thing would be easier to build. I will post a pic.

Electric by Torqeedo

Integrated Energy Mgmt

The integrated management system of Deep Blue Hybrid makes it possible to use available power in any way you wish – for the powerful high-voltage drive system, for the 24 V on-board power supply or to operate equipment with 230 V AC current. Deep Blue Hybrid is designed in such a way that energy is always available where it's needed.



Safety

Pilot line: a pilot line runs through the shielded high-voltage cables of the Deep Blue system. It constantly monitors whether the cable is undamaged and whether all plug connectors are connected. The pilot line shuts off system voltage immediately if it detects damaged cables or open plug connections (with exposed high-voltage contacts) in order to avoid any risk. Pilot lines are standard for high-voltage machinery in other industrial sectors.



Isolation monitor: constantly monitors that the voltage from all high-voltage components – including the battery and all other components under high voltage – is completely isolated from the boat. Standard for high-voltage machinery in other industrial sectors.



All components waterproof:IP67 components developed for other industrial sectors are frequently not waterproof. They do not need to be as long as they are not used on boats. But exactly that is what sometimes happens. This is why some components are not waterproof in traditional drive systems. We think that all components in a high-voltage system must always be waterproof





Battery venting: if different safety mechanisms of high-voltage batteries fail, safety cells in particular have their own safety mechanism – they can open a valve and vent to ease excess pressure and overheating. The gases emitted in this highly unlikely case are hot, toxic, flammable and heavier than air. The battery in an electric car is positioned in such a way that it can simply vent onto the road. In boats, these gases must be released into the open air in a controlled manner​

 

Keeping the motor under the stairs away from water, now the seals leak and you might have some ruined bearings, no big deal if you make them easy to replace. I didn't go into detail, ie belt tensioner. Then use the Tesla Wall and regular home appliances without inverters. Still need some good safety measures but the motor would be completely protected. I don't think the arm would weigh 100kg. Use carbon fiber around a carbon fiber frame, I bet you could get it to less than half that amount, it's not much length.

Edit- With the heavy motor no longer on the end of the arm, I think I would make the raising and lowering hydraulic off the other end of the bracket.

 

... When I look at the cost of non-marine electric motors, ... dirt cheap, even with continuous duty and other tags like waterproof ... a few grand gets you a 10hp brushless motor. Some of these motors are used in much harsher environments than a boat!

Waterproof, explosion proof, whatever you want proof
380v 60hz Ip55 Three Phase Waterproof Submersible Electric Motors - Buy Waterproof Submersible Electric Motors,Ip55 Waterproof Submersible Electric Motors,Three Phase Waterproof Submersible Electric Motors Product on Alibaba.com https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/380v-60Hz-IP55-three-phase-waterproof_60525142363.html

Marathon Motors Explosion Proof Motor, U006A, 7.5HP, 230/460V, 1800RPM, 3PH, EPFC http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/motors/ac-motors-definite-purpose/explosion-proof-motors/explosion-proof-motor-u945-213ttgs1026-75hp-230-460v-1800rpm-3ph-epfc

 

Hulls
Hull Shoes - Core 15 - Area 40,334 sq in / 26 sq meters / 166.4 KG (Factor 6.4)
Hulls - Core 15 - Area 95,992 sq in / 62 sq meters / 384 KG (Factor 6.2)
Nacelle - Core 15- Area 4713 sq in / 3 sq meters / 24 KG (Factor 8)

Decks
Int Deck - Core 15 - Area 29,954 sq in / 19 sq meters / 118 KG (Factor 6.2)
UpperBD - Core 15 - Area 26,516 sq in / 17 sq meters / 119 KG (Factor 6.2)
LowerBD - Core 15 - Area 54,552 sq in / 35 sq meters / 245 KG (Factor 6.2)
BD Stiffeners - Core 15 - Area 24,483 sq in / 16 sq meters / 99 KG (Factor 6.2)
TopDeck - Core 15 - Area 65,399 sq in / 42 sq meters / 260 KG (Factor 6.2)

Main (Cross) Bulkheads / Beams
Transom/Mast/WindDeck Bulkheads - Core 25 - Area 35,556 sq in / 23 sq meters / 207 KG (Factor 9)

Bulkheads
Hull Bulkheads - Core 15 - Area 35,946 sq in / 23 sq meters / 138 KG (Factor 6.0)
Other Bulkheads - Core 25 - Area 13,360 sq in / 9 sq meter / 72 KG (Factor 8)

Stairs
Trans Steps / Int Steps - Core 15 - Area 9,000 sq in / 6 sq meters / 37 KG (Factor 6.2)


SubTotal 1,869 KG x 2 = 3,738 KG


RoofComponents (BothSides)
Roof and Mast support structure - Core 25 - Area 55,285 sq in / 36 sq meters / 360KG (Factor 10)
Roof Upper & Lower - Core 15- Area 172,618 sq in / 111 sq meters / 688 KG (Factor 6.2)

Total Structure 4,786 KG

Cabinetry
Cabinetry & Counters Salon - Core 15 - Area 48,459 sq in / 31 sq meters / 192 KG (Factor 6.2)
Cabinetry & Misc Cabins - Core 15 - Area 58,341 sq in / 38 sq meters / 236 KG (Factor 6.2)
ElectricCloset - Core 15- Area 56,000 sq in / 36 sq meters / 223 KG (Factor 6.2)

Misc
Batteries 1000KG
Elec Misc 200KG
Drives 300 KG
SteeringSystem Rudders 250KG
Dagger 75 KG
CatWalk/Tramp 100 KG
Appliances 1000 KG
Solar 100 KG

Total Est: 8,462 KG

Still haven't included masts, anchors, chain, water and sewage tanks and a ton more little stuff so add another 2000KG and then subtract 500KG for carbon use ... I am shooting for 10 tons which is not bad for a 60 footer considering the batteries are the fuel.

 

You still have bearings that get wet if the seals leak- id be inclined to put the motor in the pod and get rid of all that complication of pulleys. There is a way of sealing up the motor shaft as they make huge submersible pumps like this for use in mining etc - im just not familiar with how they do it. All that circuit protection stuff is straight forward. Id be inclined to fabricate the pod from aluminium so its easy to transmit the heat away into the ocean.

You could go to a 4pole motor still without gearbox and this drops the motor weight to about 50kg - could still swing a 14in prop.

 

Oh and PS- i saw a very similar boat to this general arrangement yesterday down at the marina- a cat from down south. Its got a more classic flavour to it but i liked it alot. Ill post a render of it to show how they acheived the classic lines but with a modern feel. Still a bimini top with roll down clears for the bridgedeck, most accom down in the hulls...
I also learned that a 40ft Grainger racing cat is coming on the market shortly whilst i was down there

 

Jorge. Try to keep your leg pivots well above the waterline and out of the hull. Easier for maintenance and if you catch one in a fish trap the last thing you want is to rip parts of your main hull up.

 

The pivots are above the water line, have to check how far and when down, the props are still above bottom of boat so probably as safe as it's going to get. I would rather have them nestled in the hull for as little as I will use them but maybe I will devise a breakaway system. I have experience with those dang crab traps!! In my current flats skiff, prop is above bottom of boat so no problem but in my last boat, broken skegs and props galore!!

My design is not classic for sure, post the render, I am curious. I have been looking at other designers works, can't figure out how they can do such nice renders, going to have to take a tutorial! I spruced mine up a bit, cut the roof shorter, took out a panel for a skylight above the helm and tried to make it look nicer.

MC2 60 catamaran lightship is under 10 tons and it's not a carbon boat. I think I did something wrong, my stiffeners took way too much weight, and I had some extruded components that I think might have also added to it. Also I think the roof is too heavy, something is not right.

I have

 

This is a take on a more classic lines version. The sheer line can be lowered and the boat looks more sleek, classic if the deck is raised slightly with long and low side windows to provide enough headroom below. This is only 50ft - it looks even better and more sleek at 60ft... i just lost the damn modifications tho - accidently closed it without saving!
The bimini is held up via stainless steel work and has roll down clears around the front and sides.

 

Groper, how long? Ok, 50ft.
Sure that the stem is the highest point?

 

Graingers have pretty good resale, I bet it won't be cheap!

Yeah that is sleek, going to see if I can do a version in that style, I did want to drop the back deck lower but my headroom is so low already and bridgedeck really high.

 

this is it at 60ft; Havnt shown the roof but the boat i saw simply has it floating under the boom supported by some nice stainless work with pleasing angles which brace it effectively.

 

Was it open up front so you could walk up to the tramp area? That makes it difficult to have a galley. The roof is the hardest part to make look right, wish you could have got pic.

I found out where I went wrong in my weight, I am about 1000KG over because I had extruded some of my surfaces so I was counting them almost 3 times. And the cabinetry in elec room, don't know what that mess is yet but it sure ins't over 200KG, I must have counted the freezer... However at the same time I left a bunch of stuff out so I figure this is going to be about a 9 ton boat which would make it as light as any of the cruisers out there.

Gunboat 60 -15 Tons,
HH 55 - 14 Tons and
SIG 60 - 12.5 Tons with 1:13 hulls as opposed to mine 1:14
MC2 60 - 9.3 Tons (Don't see how they achieve this)

If weight is so important then this little big boat should be able to handle an unstayed mast and not be a total dog. Maybe I have to go with a taller rig or have temp stays to be able to fly a foresail but that is beyond me right now.

 

This is my style.

 

Dennis - yes im really liking this style alot - i think acheiving good resale value would be an easy affair with styling like this.

Jorge - No you couldnt walk forward through the central saloon- behind the mast there was a semi circular seating and table arrangement, and then some open space before a central console and helm wheel to the aft center part of the saloon. Access to the hulls was from the side and to get up forward you walk down the sheerline/gunwhale of the hulls - which you can see in the above render. I didnt go to the trouble of drawing the entire layout as its too much work- i just wanted to show the concept...