CNC Plans not Included

Discussion in 'Multihulls' started by jorgepease, Sep 19, 2016.

  1. jorgepease
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    jorgepease Senior Member

    It's stayed at three points and rotates with the mast ... only for upwind performance, can't see why it wouldn't work, ok post a pic when home
     
  2. jorgepease
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    jorgepease Senior Member

    I wish I knew more about rigs... anyway, I would call this a self-stayed mast. The cables can be relaxed at night instead of reefing then winched tight if you want to push it a bit. I don't understand how this helps into the wind, maybe it doesn't. What I think would be cool is that you design the mast to be Unstayed but make it a lighter duty mast as if stayed. The stays provide the extra rigidity tightened, or safety when slacked. The mast is lighter, there are no stays in the way, if the stays break, the mast doesn't come tumbling tumbling, it just depowers. You still need the bury of an unstayed mast but can have benefits of both types of masts... I think you could put more than 3 lines since the whole rig would rotate. Do you see any worth in this
    SelfStayed.jpg
     
  3. jorgepease
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    jorgepease Senior Member

    Your forward sail could have a forestay attached to a mast bearing so it stays constant. If you had the lines spread evenly there would always be a counterforce no matter the rotation. Also those outriggers can be much longer, 10 feet or more, the space is there.

    ... edit, I think I just reinvented how a wing foil would work. oh well :mad:
     
  4. rob denney
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    rob denney Senior Member

    Windmill.jpg
    Nothing wrong with a stayed mast sitting on an unstayed mast. It gives stiffness, bend control, less weight and less windage compared to an unstayed mast. The bigger the boat, the more the advantages.
    The down side is that it is more things to adjust and break, which puts me off the idea for a cruising boat.
    I did it when I put a 9.2m dia wind turbine on a 9 m catamaran for the same reasons. The mast could not be stayed to the boat or the turbine couldn't rotate. The blades were downwind of the mast, so the smaller the mast, the less turbulence they had to pass through. The drive was via a drive shaft, so the mast had to be stiff. Plus, I had the stays and mast from the boat when it was normally rigged. pic showing the arrangement attached

    The best system is to have the spreaders half way up the mast and the stays attached either to the stub mast or to a framework mounted on the base. The loads on the base are the same, but the loads on the rigging are less with the framework. At some mast length, there is benefit in having a second set of spreaders and diamond stays.
     
  5. jorgepease
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    jorgepease Senior Member

    wow, very cool. :)
    Yes more things to break. I think this is an example of it
    ni.jpg
     
  6. jorgepease
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    jorgepease Senior Member

    Last edited: May 14, 2017
  7. jorgepease
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    jorgepease Senior Member

    630 sq ft of sail, not much is it? Not near enough it seems, I guess it's for smaller boats
    Edit... wait I calculated that wrong lol give me a sec ok, it's more like 1200 plus with 70 of mast showing.
    wb.jpg
     
  8. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    Jorge: If cutting the molds is the issue and not whether they are cut by CNC or not, then they are easy solutions. Any good loftsman can cut and set the molds for you, and they will be accurate.
     
  9. jorgepease
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    jorgepease Senior Member

    Thanks, the thread started out with me just looking for CNC plans and evolved to me learning Rhino.

    Which is great because now I understand the relationship between features, best education ever!! )) ... In the end my design will have to go to an NA who will hopefully be able to preserve and improve on things but I should get really close to the Perfect-For-Me boat and though it's big, it will be relatively easy to build.
     
  10. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    Good luck with the project. Post more drawings as it evolves.
     
  11. jorgepease
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    jorgepease Senior Member

    Thanks, will need all the luck I can get ))
     
  12. jorgepease
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    jorgepease Senior Member

    Started from scratch on the roof.
    1) Got rid of the glass, it will be fold down windows in the front and soft plastic for the sides and back if needed.
    2) Added a structural frame so I can support the unstayed mast. I made it rectangular to be more modern but in a way it looks classic lol, it looks better to me.
    3) Extended roof over dinghy, saves me work creating a separate roof with solar panels for that. I will leave room for the ropes that control boom, not sure how all that works.

    and added a water plane because it's hard to see just how small these hulls really are. Gropers design are actually 2 inches taller at the bows and less than a foot narrower. Still my aspect ratio is only 1-14

    Here are the pics ..
    nr1.jpg nr2.jpg nr3.jpg nr4.jpg nr5.jpg
     
  13. groper
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    groper Senior Member

    Send me an IGES file jorge!

    Oh and heres an idea - omit a row of solar panels in the roof and replace it with dark tinted glass or similar for a sunroof to let some light in and break up the space a bit...
     
  14. jorgepease
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    jorgepease Senior Member

    Okay, will send tomorrow, I have a mess at work. Yeah Rog Denney said same thing on solar panels so I could see sails, going to do that.
     

  15. jorgepease
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    jorgepease Senior Member

    Getting more detailed. The space just forward of the steps on the guest hull has been figured out. Base and Wall Cabinets for pantry, cold storage or laundry on one side with maybe a dagger on the other side, unless I find a good way to use the Harry Proah style combined dagger and rudder and have it attached to bridgedeck.
    60det1.jpg

    On the other side of pantry/laundry room, I stretched the counter without enlarging the galley. It's better this way, too much open space and you can't brace yourself as well. Also the space behind cut board can be for appliances like coffee maker, toaster etc... hate when those things take up good working counter space.


    60det3.jpg


    I call it the windbreak, it's the slanted part that helps with windage, it's a backrest on aft sofas and a backsplash in the galley, it's also the structure to help support the unstayed mast. Since that is coming out as one piece with the deck and open to the interior, it makes a great place to put skylights. Inside I can put a diffuser and have a very bright interior. I can even vent it independently from the cabins

    60det2.jpg

    As mentioned before, I should leave some room on the roof for windows to see sails and let light in. So I drew in all the panels that would fit and that left me about a 4 foot row seen at very front of roof, all the way across. I can keep it as a row anywhere along the roof or scatter the windows about. That worked out well. This pic also shows framing for anchor locker and very nice size storage lockers.
    60det4.jpg

    I will draw the dagger boards in next but first going to read more on central mounted daggers that pivot back or should I say center boards and hopefully steerable ones. Then I don't have to mess with a kickup system for those too.

    Got to say, even though this is a big boat, it's going to be so much easier to build because you can make good time when there aren't a bunch of cut up spaces to tie together.

    Groper, here is the iges file too, I hope it's ok, don't even know if I exported it correctly
     

    Attached Files:

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