Changing props to go slower

Discussion in 'Powerboats' started by ianc1200, Apr 28, 2026.

  1. Ad Hoc
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    Ad Hoc Naval Architect

    You mean this:
    Is this correct?
     
  2. kapnD
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    kapnD Senior Member

    This is the absolute simplest solution, and you may well find that fuel economy improves when operating underloaded in spite of operating at higher rpms.
    You should be able to idle at 650 in or out of gear, regardless of engine or prop mods.
     
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  3. HelmutSheina
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    HelmutSheina Junior Member

    Have you spoken to an expert about the idle RPM? It may not fix your issue, but will be heading that way if you can reduce it by 200 or so.
     
  4. ianc1200
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    ianc1200 Junior Member

    Yes, very much so.
     
  5. ianc1200
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    ianc1200 Junior Member

    Another good point, I've asked Tony at Seaboard Marine (via his forum) about this.
     
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  6. ianc1200
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    ianc1200 Junior Member

    Thanks. Need to check this when we launch (protracted launch this year, bow and stern thrusters 80% done, but will be copper coated when warm dry/less windy weather arrives here on UK east coast).
     
  7. Ad Hoc
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    Ad Hoc Naval Architect

    Ok..so it is not a problem with the boat per se, but your understanding of what is going on in terms of general hydrodynamics?
    Is that correct?
     
  8. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    Ian

    Please post the following per engine:

    RPMs at idle in neutral
    RPMs at forward engagement
    RPMs at various cruising speeds say every 5 kts.

    You probably have something wrong with the engines or drive system. Yes, the pitch might be high, but the tossing you over is probably another problem.

    If your engines got turned up to deal with another problem; the idea they don’t ‘like’ to idle low is probably root cause unless you mean it as a character to the engines.

    What we want to see is rpm drop on engagement. If it doesn’t you are addressing an engine problem with the props.
     
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  9. HelmutSheina
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    HelmutSheina Junior Member

    It would at least give a better chance of modifying current propellers to achieve requirements.
     
  10. ianc1200
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    ianc1200 Junior Member

    Hi Bajansailor - just wanted to say thanks for this recommendation. It looks exactly what I need. It will need quite a bit of effort on my part to read & try to understand the concepts but it's going to be very worthwhile I believe. thanks again.
     
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  11. ianc1200
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    ianc1200 Junior Member

    Thanks for the reply, but the boat isn't in the water at present & I can only repeat the information in the manual. However I do believe the system is working properly, it's just this boat and it's engines are set up to go faster than we want. I had a mechanical survey, the engineer doing doing this did sea trials & also both engines had oil analysis (engines and gearboxes). From the expert Tony at Seaboard Marine he says the fuel pumps, Nippon Denso EP9's, are very reliable, but industrial/agricultural, and don't idle easily. It really is my fault for buying the boat but I'm just looking at my alternatives now.

    Edit - Tony Athens at Seaboard Marine has sent me details about how to adjust the idle on the pumps (but I don't think this is a great idea as they really sound unhappy at the current idle and would be worried going for a lower idle) but said reducing prop pitch by 3 - 4" is good. So I guess that's what I'll do eventually.
     
  12. kapnD
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    kapnD Senior Member

    To do any mods to props or motors, you first need to be sure that the motors are performing to spec.
    I would put some energy into the rough idle problem first.
    You are glossing over the fact that the idle is significantly higher than spec, and that is obviously affecting the ability to go slow.
    Do some easy testing and observations.
    Injector break test, WOT in and out of gear, smoke color and quantity?
    Fuel delivery system, vacuum readings?
    Air intake side restriction?
    Chart performance over entire rpm range?
     
  13. philSweet
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    philSweet Senior Member

    Given the age, there is no telling what parts the engines actually have on them. I would attack the idle issue first. Get your CPL number and parts list for those engines. Pull some fuel injectors, figure out if it's all Bosch or has Cummins nozzles on it, inspect it, and get a fuel pressure reading on the engine to compare to specs. That motor was pushed by Cummins to over 315hp using non-Bosch injector nozzles (later versions went to 370hp). Getting CPL-correct or derated nozzles and decent fuel pressure at idle is relatively cheap and easy, and there isn't a lot of mystery to it, just a PITA to find the parts for a derated 6BTA. May require the Bosch <edit - Denso> pump to be recalibrated - nontrivial, but it's kinda important. You can't do much about the boat's performance until the engines are working properly. If it has been sitting, there are probably fuel supply issues to deal with. Replace everything rubber that you can access and replace. Remove and clean fuel pipes. You'll probably find all manner of of stuff that isn't good while you are doing this.
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2026
  14. fallguy
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    fallguy Boat Builder

    I cannot offer 1% of what Phil just did, but you don’t correct a clear engine issue with props. Take his list and chase it.

    If the boat still throws you on gear engagement, verify rpm drop or you also may have a governor issue. It seems to me the engines have been over tinkered with…
     
  15. ianc1200
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    ianc1200 Junior Member

    Thanks for the replies fallguy/philsweet/kapnD but just to re-iterate these engines do not like to idle - this is what I've seen on the water and the opinion of the expert for these engines (and in particular these fuelpumps) says. The engine is set up to run at a certain revs and not below. This is (for me) a downside of these fuel pumps, Nippon Denso EP9's, for others an advantage.
     

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