CE: Through-hull fittings on aluminum boats

Discussion in 'Metal Boat Building' started by Eric Sponberg, Apr 3, 2005.

  1. Eric Sponberg
    Joined: Dec 2001
    Posts: 2,021
    Likes: 248, Points: 73, Legacy Rep: 2917
    Location: On board Corroboree

    Eric Sponberg Senior Member

    Now I would like some advice.

    I posted this question on the design forum, but I suppose this is a better location.

    I have heard recently that the EU will not allow Marelon through-hull fittings and seacocks on aluminum boats for CE certification. Is this true?

    If so, what do you folks in Europe do for through-hull fittings and seacocks on aluminum boats so as to qualify for CE certification?

    I can imagine that a pipe section welded to the hull would suffice for the through-hull pipe, but then you need a seacock. Do you have to use stainless steel? Certainly bronze is not acceptable because of galvanic corrosion, even if you were to isolate it from the pipe with an insulating spacer.

    Any advice would be appreciated.

    Eric
     
  2. Paul Mooney
    Joined: Oct 2004
    Posts: 8
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Michigan

    Paul Mooney Junior Member

    aluminum seacocks

    I can't speak for the European requirements but I believe I am one of the few builders to use the PBM aluminum industrial ball valves on our aluminum hulls. I like the idea of same metal and a heavy duty valve to boot. check out their info, lots of experience with marine valves in bronze and ss as well. these are first class valves, you get what you pay for. http://www.pbmvalve.com/index.html
     
  3. lazeyjack

    lazeyjack Guest

    through hulls

    after 20 years building alloy I am now writing a book on Aluminium Hands On Yachtbuilding
    Here is the method I thought best
    Spin a flange in the lathe, take a 3 piiece ss balll valve, throw away the valve flanges, and tap the alloy flange to suit the though bolts on the ss valve, weld the flange to the hull plating after having holesawed a hole in said plating, smaller than the hole in spun flange, this is so you can get a nice fillet weld on outside of plate, then stitch the flange on inside Insulate the hold down hex screws with synthetic washers and heat shrink on the shanks where they pass through the cast holes on the valve body, this is the strongest and simplest method. The valve seals against the spun flange by the nylon seal that is in the valve body
    Another tiip, bring all your water into a fabricated sea chest, and fit valves to same , that way you only need on big inlet valve, you can do same with overboard too, saves having holes all over
    do same with exhaust valve These 3 piece ss valves are very cheap to buy all over the world now, full flow too, not like these synthetic thingies
     
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