Building the houseboat

at that price that interior is about 60'ooo dollars ?

 

Daniel,

http://www.toplicht.de/

has some nice old stuff too.

Regards
Richard

 

The port ceiling is done, and well guarded against intrudors.
I hope the white soks will keep them at bay



Port ceiling view to the aft end



Port ceiling view to the fore end



Next is the starboard ceiling, then the fore bulkhead and a lot of black goop cleaning.

Daniel

 

You right, and they are by far the best.
I use to buy from them, they are very efficients, and they respect the time frame for shipping. Not like Davey in the old time. I don't know now, I think they have a representation in the US.
But Toplicht sell manual windlass like the old Reid, but made in Poland, a real beauty. 1930 type of design, and they are superb.
They sell also cowlvent in galvanized, a rarity.
This people knows about classic boat, let me tell you.
Daniel

 

Daniel I just re-read the entire thread from page 1 again and its fasinating to see the boat coming together. Your 412 hours is obviously working full days every day because at approx 100 hours a month its a lot. I just find that I am exhausted all day every day, my build is going well - working evenings and weekends, but I will try to find the extra energy to get my post more up to date.

What made you decide to go for this build method? Because I am a epoxy and glass over marine-ply fan. Your build seems to be a heavy construction and the soaking and treating of the timber is also a lot of work. I love the work you are doing and I am curious about what seems to be "old school" methods. What seems to be great is that your build is going rather fast at this stage.

So when you have the energy and the mood - give me a bit of background on the methods, designs, thinking and planning. A bit of the history.

Cheers
Manie

 

No surprise, they own old woodies and restored them. The founder was my neighbour in Hamburg.

 

Порт стеля зору ззаду. Ви хочете сказати, фортеця, або на підлозі?

Do you mean bulwark, or floor?

 

Yes you right, I am working full time. Not the same amount of daily hours as I use to do, being older I get tired more easily. But I still keep time for designing.
Beside some racing IOR class sailing boat in the seventies built in cold molded, a string of Tornado in epoxy/tortured plywood, International Moth also in tortured plywood and two trimaran in cold molded, my line of boatbuilding was mostly for the commercial.
Small and large utility vessels and fishing boat of steel or wood was the bread an butter. Fishing boat of wood, built outside under very hot temperatures was the norm for me.
And all my building process start with a full size lofting, what ever was the size. It is, for me, mandatory to loft, I can't do any boat without it.
If the vessel is quite large, I draw on the drafting board a pre-lofting, like Reimers use to do, one scale for the vertical, one scale for the horizontals. It gave me a good clue of the irregularity on the offset table. I purposely exagerate as much as I can the different scales
As for the construction, no glue will have resisted to the tension on double sawn timbers under scorching temperatures, so the classical method was a natural way to go.
As for the timber planking, to avoid the caulking, I used the double longitudinal planking with tar in the middle. Not for this boat, being too small to do it, I will use the centermatch 1 by 6 with neoprene in the groove.
Large number of fastening is an important part of my design, inset of relying on any type of glue. I like the galvanized fastening double hot dipped when available, if not the simple dip will do.
I use a lot of tallow, for multiple application. I did until now 5 lbs of tallow. I have to do a new batch of 5 lbs.
I always used kerosene, its cheap and very efficient to protect the wood.
The linseed oil has to be mixed with pine tar to have a preventive effect on wood. But the most important part is to soak the wood, not brushed it, soak it. The longer the better, the more gallon used the better.
I am right know at 5 gallons of linseed oil and one gallon of pine tar, several gallons of kerosene. Not all is in the wood, but the a good part went inside.
A system like this one prohibit any glues. It is messy, and all the tools are full of oil. The luting is neoprene resistant to any solvents or oil.
The side will be painted of several coat of linseed oil based black matte paint.
The red you see is a linseed oil based primer.
One exemption, the under water of the hull and the keel will be coated with two heavy coat of coal tar epoxy. As it is done already underneath the keel.
For that the need to be careful with the oil.
The soaking will be only with kerosene for the lower planking, since it show no interference between coal tar epoxy and kerosene (dry)
The coal tar epoxy as a great elongation, the same as coal tar which I also heavily use, enough to cope with the movement of the planking. Two gallons will be used for the underwater. Then the antifouling.
Of course all that do not give you a Bristol yacht finish, but a rough working boat finish.
Daniel

 

What I am doing now is the bulwark, the bulkhead will be done after the ceiling on the bulwark is done. The floors was done long time ago, they are tying the two lower part of the frames together, and tight against the keel by being bolted to the keel.
That way the whole structure is fastened together, the last part being the beams, bolted to the frames sides, and also bolted in the middle through a middle stanchion, itself fastened to the floors.
So the deck is almost used as a keelson in a certain way.
The ceiling is cosmetic, but also allow the water to run free to the round opening on the transom, and gave some strength to the stanchions, upper part of the side frames.
Daniel

 

Now I understand why they are so good.

Daniel

 

Very very interesting
thanks

 

Daniel I just Google Earth and found Maine,

You live in a part of the world that is boaters heaven. For somebody like me that grew up in a arid waterless land (semi desert) the amount of fresh water that is in your area is simply incomprehensable. I have to pinch myself to see if I am awake when I see soooooooo much rivers and dams.

So please tell us where you will keep the boat and what are the travel plans. If you have Google Earth please give co-ordinates so that I can join you on your fantastic voyage in cyber space.

Google Earth is my escape from reality. When I am tired and the bones are sore I go on these wonderful journeys down the streams and rivers.
Would you ever consider the Great Loop ?? or parts of it ??

 

Yes Manie I am lucky to live in Maine. 4000 miles of coast, 2000 island, 3000 lakes, some very small but a dream to canoe, The sea go inside the land for almost 100 miles at some point.
An interesting state.
This is a picture which show the ceiling and at the end the scupper on the transom, letting the water flowing free and going overboard in the engine well between the transom and counterstern.
I will try to add picture to explain better.
The dark spot is the pine tar oozing from the staves.

 

Excellent photography!

 

Let me make one further comment on that.

Sure you know (but sometimes we forget, not only pro´s are reading here) that you should make the window deeper to be able to look out when seated.

And don´t forget these:
http://lampa.patinas.hu/index.php?language=en
when you are looking for lamps.

Regards
Richard