Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

Discussion in 'Multihulls' started by oldsailor7, Jul 22, 2009.

  1. mainsailman
    Joined: May 2009
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    Location: London

    mainsailman Junior Member

    some modification :-?

    Hi, there,
    thanks to oldsailor7 I've got the drawings of buccaneer 24 couple weeks ago. Can't tell you how I'm amazed of the design! So simple, so effective, just what I've looked for. But as usual haven't got enough time and resources at present to start with the project. Hovewer, I "did some home work". I've tried to put some little comfort in this beautiful boat. For this purpose a deck was lifted and expanded a bit. The underbody remains untoched. I have changed the hull above waterline I can provide the middle section later, but here we need an opinion from specialists. For modifications I planned to use the same materials as in the specification, so the total weight shouldn't be too excessive. I've done short animation by myself just to show to my fife :) how the boat will look inside in reality.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv7oIsPKPK4

    If my ideas not totally crazy (I do have very little experience but lot of passion in design and building of boats) it would be interesting to hear an opinion from you guys.
    It is a real pleasure to read this forum,
    Cheers!
     
  2. Joe Moore
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: Hertfordshire, UK

    Joe Moore Junior Member

    mainsailman (and anybody else in the london / southern england area) i'm really keen to see one of these little boats "in the flesh", do keep us updated with your progress.

    the youtube animation looks quite impressive, have you got any external mockups?
     
  3. Samnz
    Joined: Nov 2008
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    Location: Auckland

    Samnz Senior Member

    have you got any pictures of how the cabin will look from the outside?? thats a very cool concept for the inside.
     
  4. oldsailor7
    Joined: May 2008
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    Location: Sydney Australia

    oldsailor7 Senior Member

    Thats a very nice concept,--But---

    Where is the bulkhead #4, forward cross beam, crossbeam braces and compression strut, centreboard case and mast step support.

    All the major forces pass through bulkhead former #4.
    You can't just ignore it.
    Also with the cabin accomodation so far forward, it would be very uncomfortable, as the centre of movement in the B24 is just ahead of the companionway bulkhead. I'd like Samnz take on this. He has the experience.

    And where are you going to store the sails. :eek:
    Front bunk space is the usual place.
    Toilet is best placed under the aft end of the bunk bottom.

    A very nice galley can be made from 1/4" ply with a 5/16" top. Sink set in and cooktop screwed down. I used a "Port-A-Sink", which holds it's own fresh water supply, with built in pump/tap and drain. The drain goes to an overboard thru hull fitting
    A simple bench seat can be constructed on the Stbd side---storage under. A flip up table opposite.
    Sealed cell foam upholstery on the bunks and bench seat, with coloured canvas covers. Matching coloured curtains on the cabin windows are a nice touch.
    All very inexpensive, but a labour of love --plus a little imagination too.

    Hope this helps with Ideas. 0S7. :D
     
  5. samfl
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    Location: Florida

    samfl Junior Member

    I am definitely interested if you still have the set of plans available. Please contact me at sssail55@hotmail.com.
     
  6. samfl
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    Location: Florida

    samfl Junior Member

    There seems to be several types of marine ply available here in my area; okoume and meranti for imported types and fir for domestic. The okoume is made to BS1088 and the meranti is available as BS1088 and BS6566. Any recommendations on which is better for the Buc 24 construction?
     
  7. samfl
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    Location: Florida

    samfl Junior Member

    Another question on materials. In some building notes on the Buc 24 i found online (I forget where), there is reference to some of the dimensional lumber as "Oregon". I'm not familiar with that term as it is not used locally here in Florida. Can anyone tell me if this is a reference to pine, fir, cedar etc. or what type of lumber available here in the US is a suitable substitute?
     
  8. samfl
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    Location: Florida

    samfl Junior Member

    I like the beams that Samnz designed for Capricorn, but in my area, I'd still like to be able to dismount the amas to trailer the boat and be able to store it on the hard for hurricane season, having already lost one boat a few years ago to storms. Are there any designs for similar beams that are still dismountable?
     
  9. samfl
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    Location: Florida

    samfl Junior Member

    Will extending the floats and transom tend to reduce the hobby horsing that I have seen some dicussing in this and other threads? The inlets here can get some pretty fair sized waves even when calm outside with enough onshore wind wind and an outgoing tide. I used to have a 23' monhull (trailerable) that was difficult to get out with under such conditions because the outboard prop kept coming out of the water due to the hobby horsing over waves if I had to go out dead into the wind.
     
  10. LucD
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: Quebec, Canada

    LucD Junior Member

    I think that if you are to seal that plywood in and out in epoxy, there is no need to spend the extra money on marine plywood, but you do need a good quality ply. Grade Fir select one side is good. A good marine ply is more than twice the price than Fir. There are many different kind of wood but the application, installation and characteristic would be different.
    Well, this is my 2 cent.
     
  11. samfl
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    Location: Florida

    samfl Junior Member

    LucD, You suggest grade fir select one side as a possible alternative to marine ply. How does this compare to marine ply in terms of strength, weight and the ability to get a fair curve when bending. I thought the main advantage to the marine ply if the quality of the veneers used (no or less voids, patches etc.) a more balanced construction with thicker outer veneers, and that fir ply is generally heavier than okoume or meranti (although they may not have the same strength as the fir).
     
  12. jamez
    Joined: Feb 2007
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    Location: Auckland, New Zealand

    jamez Senior Member

    In a boat like the Bucc 24 its better to keep it as light as possible. Occume and meranti are both lighter than D-Fir. Occume is the lightest and generally the most expensive. Although some say that Occume is less durable than Meranti, If its epoxy sealed this shouldn't matter. The difference in price between exterior and marine grade will only be a fraction of the cost of your total spend. Tip - you'll probably get a better price if you buy in bulk. And get quotes from several sources, mine varied by about 50% for ply and timber.
     
  13. mainsailman
    Joined: May 2009
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    mainsailman Junior Member

    Thanks, Joe Moore
    So far I'm trying to find a workshop where to build the boat, I think I could start probably no earlier than next summer. Of course I will update about the progress.
     
  14. mainsailman
    Joined: May 2009
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    Location: London

    mainsailman Junior Member

    A few pictures...

    Thanks Samnz, I glad you like it, hope this concept will work. There are few pictures with external view, they're not finished yet (I'm afraid it will be a lot of question about the design modification)
     

    Attached Files:


  15. LucD
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: Quebec, Canada

    LucD Junior Member

    The question is what is marine ply? It's water resistant glue, no void, no knot, water resistant treatment for the wood (and that depend on the manufacturer). You use marine ply so you don't have to seal the wood (as per manufacturer). Eventually marine ply will rot if you do not retreat or paint the wood. The void you can find in fir select one side ply is not very big, we are usually talking about a little bigger than a finish nail head, but if you go cheap grade you can fit a 25 cent in the void. There are grade in every wood and ply can be made of a lot of different wood essences and every essence have their up and down.
     
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