Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

Discussion in 'Multihulls' started by oldsailor7, Jul 22, 2009.

  1. popeyensweetp
    Joined: Apr 2014
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    Location: Florida

    popeyensweetp Junior Member

    Total new guy here to the forum and new Buc 24 I have included in my fleet, lol.

    The bad, Rot in main hull and on deck, The good,,, every little part is there to rig the boat, every part.

    Kinda overwhelmed but will do my best, love the idea of this boat in the Fl. Keys and the Bahamas.

    I do know how to fiberglass, epoxy, paint and work my A*&*(* off.

    Thanks in advance everyone, I will read many many previous posts to educate myself.
     
  2. oldsailor7
    Joined: May 2008
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    Location: Sydney Australia

    oldsailor7 Senior Member

    Welcome to the thread Popeye&Sweetpea.:D
    It will take you few hours to wade through the whole thread.
    It may also raise more questions. :eek:
    Don't hesitate to ask. :cool:
     
  3. popeyensweetp
    Joined: Apr 2014
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    Location: Florida

    popeyensweetp Junior Member

    Thank you very very much.

    Popeye:cool::cool:
     
  4. bruceb
    Joined: Nov 2008
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    Location: atlanta,ga

    bruceb Senior Member

    welcome to the buc world

    :) Just ask!! And don't be timid.
    B
     
  5. popeyensweetp
    Joined: Apr 2014
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    Location: Florida

    popeyensweetp Junior Member

    Thanks fellow Buc owners, The boat has rot, main cabin bow, centerboard area ,,, alma's. I will repair with marine ply 4 mill, Epoxy,, 6 once Cloth .

    Where did the hardware come from ? its stamped French, beautiful stuff, curious who fabricated the SS fittings??

    Thanks all, wish I had the money and time I would build a new one....

    Popeyensweetp
     
  6. SpiritWolf15x
    Joined: Apr 2010
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    Location: Vancouver, Canada

    SpiritWolf15x Senior Member

    I was just going over the build plans I got from OS7 and I came to the materials sheets.

    I'm wondering if there is a conversion chart or something similar to covert the plywood and timber to foam?
     
  7. oldsailor7
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    oldsailor7 Senior Member

    I don't think there is Rob, because the variety of available foams, glass cloths, carbon materials and resins makes a formidable matrix of choice. :eek:
     
  8. SpiritWolf15x
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    SpiritWolf15x Senior Member

    I'd rather not go with the exact measurements in foam as it may be more than is needed.
     
  9. oldsailor7
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    oldsailor7 Senior Member

    I'ts pretty tricky Rob, because if you have too thick a foam you can suffer internal shearing of the foam in the sandwhich. However the density of the foam must be taken into account for the same reason.
    If you have too thin a foam the "resistance to deformation" of the surface shape is reduced.
    The thickness of the glass (carbon) skin also must be taken into account regarding Resistance to 1.pressure distortion, 2.puncture and 3.abrasion.
    Puncture is the real Devil here. Unless the outer coating is STEEL, no normal sandwich is resistant to hitting something sharp and solid such as a semi submerged container or an un-seen deadhead in the water, (Lots in NW Canada :mad:).

    This is the reason why good plywood construction, using the Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique, (WEST.) is so good. Easy, strong, light and durable,
    complete encapsulation of all the wood in the boat, with two coats on the inside planking and three coats on the outside is all you need. Glass only required on the outer seams is all. Total encapsulation not only keeps the water out of the wood, but Water Vapour, which is just as bad. Paints don't resist water vapour.
    Many sailors and boat builders won't accept this, but the Gougeon Bro's must be given the credit for WEST, and there are many forty odd year old boats still afloat and sailing to show the proof of it. :cool:
     
  10. SpiritWolf15x
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    SpiritWolf15x Senior Member

    As much as I love wood boats (it's genetic...) I'm trying to move away from them, hence why I'm thinking of using foam.

    My 33 uses 1/2" foam core with 1/4" glass on either side, probably more in the below the water area on the hulls and it's as tough as they get.
     
  11. oldsailor7
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    oldsailor7 Senior Member

    "My 33 uses 1/2" foam core with 1/4" glass on either side, probably more in the below the water area on the hulls and it's as tough as they get."

    Wow.:eek: 1/4". Thats over the top and much too heavy.
    On the B33's we built we used 3/8" foam and 10 oz glass cloth, set in polyester resin. Bruce b has one of them 40 yrs old. He can be the judge of it's longevity.
    I had a B28 made of wood. Dave Green (who is a very good sailor), could never beat me in his foam sandwhich B28, ( with rounded sections drawn by a so called NA, and stretched to 30 ft.---but too heavy.
    You have to be very careful when making changes to other designers boats.
    as Arthur Piver warned very early in the game.
    __________________
     
  12. redreuben
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    redreuben redreuben

    1/4" ? Thats massive !
     
  13. SpiritWolf15x
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    SpiritWolf15x Senior Member

    The builders of my 33 were making a boat to take across oceans, it's surprisingly light considering. Even as over built as it is it still sits VERY high in the water and we've clocked her doing 22knots on the GPS with a small, blown out main sail and blown out head sails.

    I'm just weary of wood is all.
     
  14. oldsailor7
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    oldsailor7 Senior Member

    Did you really mean a "Quarter of an Inch".
    Thats 6mm. How many layers of glass cloth and resin did you have to have, to get that thickness of fibreglass, and did you have that both sides. :eek:
     

  15. SpiritWolf15x
    Joined: Apr 2010
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    SpiritWolf15x Senior Member

    error on my part there, core is 1/2, glass is 1/16.
     
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