Bead and Cove Router Bits - Where to buy in USA?

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by CatBuilder, Dec 18, 2010.

  1. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    On one carpentry job we were flipping coins, betting on getting the closest to the plywood joint in the floor. One guys bounced and stuck edgewise in the crack. He won that round! ;)
     
  2. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    Something just came to mind, Andrew. Can't I just tape the inside of the bilge first, then move the complete hull off the mold, doing the outside somewhere else? Isn't that the way it's done?

    BTW: I went with the fully cored bilge. Remember, I had 3 bilge layups to choose from.

    This should work, right?
     
  3. hoytedow
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    hoytedow Wood Butcher

    I mentioned gorilla glue because it sets very quickly and is good for the application I suggested because it will save you time. Just don't get it on you or it will be harder to get off than titebond.
     
  4. variverrunner
    Joined: Dec 2009
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    Location: New York, USA

    variverrunner Junior Member

    Catbuilder.

    My 2 cents is to go with the Titebond glue. A few air nails to hold the pieces together. Gorilla glue is probably overkill and messy.

    Best of luck

    Allan
     
  5. Steve W
    Joined: Jul 2004
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    Location: Duluth, Minnesota

    Steve W Senior Member

    Go with the titebond, if you predrill the clearance holes thru the battens before you instal the foam and you have 8" under the mold you should be able to use a battery right angle drill to drive the screws into the foam, you will develop a light touch.
    Steve.
     
  6. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    I was thinking maybe I could use one of these too:

    [​IMG]


    I'll have to really put some thought into this. Maybe there is a way I can jack it up higher while I build, then lower it when it comes time to take the half hull out of the mold.

    Anybody know if I can walk on the fiberglassed foam while it's in the mold? :?:
     
  7. Steve W
    Joined: Jul 2004
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    Location: Duluth, Minnesota

    Steve W Senior Member

    If you need to walk on the glassed foam i would lay down a plank which will span a bunch of forms to walk on so as not to contaminate and so you dont damage the foam since it has no glass on the other side yet.
    Steve
     
  8. variverrunner
    Joined: Dec 2009
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    Location: New York, USA

    variverrunner Junior Member

    Catbuilder,

    My 2 cents again. Do a sample, step on it, jump on it and check it out. Test Test Test. You can always lay some 1/4" ply or maybe foam: whatever you have on hand, to spread the load.

    I wish you and your project the best.

    Allan
     
  9. hoytedow
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    Location: North of Cuba

    hoytedow Wood Butcher

    Posters #67 and #68 are right. Spread the weight and do a test. I am out-voted on the glue so follow their advice and use titebond. Get some gorilla glue and test it too. There are some great uses for it as it is dense polyurethane foam and expands as it cures. It is great for filling small holes and building up damaged areas etc above the water line. Really worth investigating.
     
  10. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    I have some old vinyl signs about 4'x6' that I throw on the ground when going under stuff that allows me to slide around easily but stay out of the dirt. They aren't solid vinyl but cloth like like some bimini tops. They are stiff enough so they don't wad up like a plastic tarp. When going into the crawlspace under my house, a nasty, mildly frightening experience (I had a spider fall IN my ear once, I know there's snakes, I find skins), in addition to the signs, I have some strips of rubber roofing (like innertube rubber) 4' x 15' that I can roll out ahead of me as I go. Using two of them I can roll them out and pull them up and roll them out and go anywhere, changing directions, etc.

    The angle drill using a magnetic bit and steel screws will allow you to reach in with just your arm pretty far and you might have only a few places that are really hard to get at and also you might not have to fasten the foam everywhere either.
     
  11. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    Ok, I have a new development. Gurit wants to sell me 2' x 4' sheets of core cell for a decent price. (1/4 the normal full size panel)

    Will this be a tremendous pain in the *** to save some money? Worth doing?

    Gurit is suggesting I can use composite staples to hold the foam together instead of gluing them to make it easier. Thoughts?
     
  12. War Whoop
    Joined: Jun 2003
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    War Whoop Senior Member


    ??? Just glue them together at whatever length you need.
     
  13. AndrewK
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    AndrewK Senior Member

    I had fewer battens than in your photo also only 600gsm inner laminate, I put down scraps of 3mm mdf to walk on. Had no dents from my 75kg.
     
  14. AndrewK
    Joined: Mar 2007
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    Location: Australia

    AndrewK Senior Member

    That is a huge saving so go for it, as War Whoop said glue it together. Staples are fine for flat sheets on a table or thermoformed pieces in a mold when infusing. But you will be torturing yours to a small degree.
     

  15. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    Thanks. Just wanted to run that by people before I made any purchasing mistakes. The core cell (in small pieces) is ordered.
     
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