Bayliner 175 cracked engine block

[Barry]

Hey, if that crack is the only damage, it is weldable. I've repaired similar damages, using soft nickel electrodes, pre-"warming" (not "heating"), short welds, and "purring" the weld when hot, and then slooow cooling. The gasket surface may have to be shaved for straightness, but most often not.

Have you abandoned the outboard plans, btw?

We are assuming ( most likely) that it is is cast iron, which the Ni-rod weld will with pre- and post- heat will work.
Brazing will also work to join two pieces of cast, but the extended heating of the weld groove may cause distortion????

Is there any chance that it could be cast steel? Years ago almost all automotive blocks were cast iron but perhaps not recently?
A spark test will reveal the substrate

 

[DogCavalry]

The marina mechanic said it is a 3liter mercruiser long block engine. The Mercury website is an enthusiastically worthless steaming pile of hype. So it didn't tell me anything.

 

[baeckmo]

Brazing will also work to join two pieces of cast, but the extended heating of the weld groove may cause distortion????

Yes, in this case, stick welding causes less distorsion if done correctly.

 

[DogCavalry]

It's looking like weld,or repower. Replacement isn't a thing, unless that ancient one I'm chainsawing out of the wrecked boat can be made a runner. Those engines just aren't available anymore, except for exorbitant prices. Quite a bit more than the 4.3

 

[DogCavalry]

The oil is about 2" high on the dipstick. Internal cracking is certainly possible. It started and ran just fine, before I noticed the water and started looking closer.

 

[gonzo]

That's an old Iron Duke. GM made millions of them since the 60's. Depending on how much you want to spend, they are readily available.

 

[Barry]

I wonder why the frost plugs immediately below the crack did not function
Marinized engines, from reputable engine suppliers, often tout brass frost plugs instead of the aluminum variety. I had assumed, that this was because the brass might not corrode at the interface as much and "stick" in the opening
to ensure that they would function.

 

[gonzo]

Frost plugs are mainly there to remove the mold sand from the block. They may pop out when freezing, but rarely save a block, specially on GMs. Ford blocks are usually more forgiving.

 

[DogCavalry]

This is consistent with what I see. I'll pump out all the oil, see if there's water in the sump. JBWeld would certainly be preferable to a repair cost twice what we paid, or scrapping a fairly decent boat.

 

[bajansailor]

Can you post a photo of the Bayliner as well please?
I presume that you will be using it as a water taxi for commuting - if so, what is the daily distance that you will have to travel each way?

 

[fallguy]

I am sorry to tell you, but generally when water jacket has problems; it is not all.

I would NEVER try to start another dated merc or ford engine without a head gasket job. The last two I messed with; one turned over. The other one had some water on top of one of the pistons that had created a nice little rusty pile of crud and when I spun it over; it seized or bent a rod or some of both. When they sit for a long time; odd things happen in the cylinders because the valves are in various states. So, if you want to repair that old beast; pull the head primo firsto. Then inspect for cracked cylinder walls and other horros before you spend a nickel. You can sell the od and probably make up for the engine loss. The volvo I have here needs a 270od. Know zero about linking volvo to alphas; probably not possible. But if you found a 270; I'd let you find a uship for the volvo here. I paid $650 for it years ago. Sitting unfogged, but in a controlled space on a tire.

Probably can't get it loaded onto a truck for say 30 days; there is 4" of ice in front of the building

 

[DogCavalry]

@bajansailer, it's a ten minute trip each way.

 

[fallguy]

Thanks @Barry . Considering the cost of replacement block and manifold, the extra work is certainly justified. What timing! I'm supposed to move to a wster access house Saturday. Using this boat...

The manifolds are full of rust. How much? Only inspection will tell you. Pull the manifolds; pull the head; look it over. Spray oil onto the cylinder heads and hand spin it some with a big wrench or socket. A rough spot and it is junk, bent rod. When you take off the head; use some fine paper and sand away carbon. If you see any pitting on a cylinder head; it typically means the block is cracked between intake and exhaust. Another reason to say goodbye ftmp.

I really regrettting not pulling the heads on the engines I did before I spun them with the battery. Foolish to spend all the time I did only to bend a rod. I changed the oil two times; cleaned everything, cleaned the distrivutors; new plug wires only to bend a friggin rod!

 

[DogCavalry]

The oil pan is full of melted coffee ice cream, and ice crystals. So that's that.

Well, there's steering, throttle, fuel tank, and a simple electrical system. Thankfully there are many threads about converting an I/O to an outboard

 

[bajansailor]

Are you now planning on (temporarily) using that outboard (I think it is 150 hp?) that you bought for Serenity on a bracket / pod on the Bayliner?

@bajansailer, it's a ten minute trip each way.

Is this at approx 20 - 25 knots? So about 4 miles in total?