Battery wiring systems for multiple banks

Engine Control Unit does not control alternator output.

You are confusing people that have asked for help.

When explaining don't abbreviate

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_control_unit

 

here's one I use parts of
Some of the cabling IMO is a bit large

 

Lets get it right Scubadude ...using the alternators WILL charge your batteries fully and bringing your house up to full ASAP WILL give it the best life. What you have forgotten is that equipment dealers will sell you anything ....a double VSR does not isolate the start and house battery whilst charging ..ie you must stop the start bat when charged from discharging into the house in an attempt to charge the house battery ....People have spent many many hours on this and the extra 3 phase rectifier is the only way to go to do the job right without spending zillions of $ on crap

Here it is below 3 in 2 out whats the problem ..virtual village I think

 

A VSR --what--one of these. A variable speed regulator

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_vsr_drill

Or http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VSR

Vehicles security register??

 

In conclusion.

1) One should first find out what the Charging Voltage must be for the battery to be charged. (This what the laboratory of the Battery Manufacturer stated)
2) the next step is to find out what Voltage is of the regulator.
3) If both are the same - no problem, but you have to accept, if a silicon rectifier is used, your battery will only be charged to 90 -95%. This is also not a problem, in view that your battery will last longer. I have batteries here which have been charged to 95% and are now 8 years old.
4) If the battery Charging Voltage is lower then the Voltage regulator, you have to accept that your battery will not last 8 year, but probably 3 years.
5) If the difference under point 4) = 0,6 - 0,8 Volt. Use a silicon rectifier. If your difference is 0,3 - 0,4 Volt Use Schottky diodes. 2 x 50 ampere parallel for each parallel connected battery should solve the problem.
6) If you only charge and run your diesel until the batteries are full, it does not matter what the differences are. As long you know, when to stop and when the batteries are fully charged.
Bert

 

For gods sake bert stop confusing the issue ...you dont know what you are talking about ..stop putting rubbish on the site ...to 100% charge the battery you must go to 15.3v ...14.4v is the gassing voltage about 80% of ultimate but batteries are only charged to this to reduce maintanence ....NEVER use diode split charge system as the drop of 0.7v so it goes up to only 13.7v and you wil get a battery life of 12 months. When you use these system you must up your alternator output 0.7v to compensate. you do not need to stop charging when they are all fully charged...its automatic ..the charge current will have tended to zero.. Now the original poster has been told what to do so its up to him ....

FROSTY ....VSR voltage sensitive relay ...closes when battery voltage goes up to 13.6 and opens when it drops to about 13v . Not the best way for a 120A alternator connected to a start battery and 400AH of house battery which after a night on the tv /central heating pump is only 25 % charged.

 

That is very interesting. I have been making close to some 100 battery chargers for Sealed Lead Acid batteries. Supplied with our system to all over the world. Yes, I agree, not via an alternator with internal Voltage regulator, but constant Voltage regulation with temperature compensation.

It is very funny, that the batteries I have here, have an open Voltage 13,2 - 13,4 Volt for days and days. Also that the batteries last for years and years.

Your statement about maximum 13 Volt is thus ignored by me. Remember we are discussion Sealed Lead Acid Batteries and not liquid.

Please look at the following website. http://www.powerstream.com/SLA.htm

I trust this site more than what you are writing.
Bert

 

First time you have mentioned SLA ...the open voltage of a battery as you call it should be over 12.5v or its suspect ..other than that your readings dont mean anything...only a load test will confirm if battery is good

 

You are right , I apologize. It was mentioned in another thread, running parallel with this one. I haven't mentioned Sealed Lead Acid Batteries in this Thread. Sorry for that.
Bert

Note, However I like to emphasize that more and more Sealed Batteries are being sold and substitute liquid Lead Acid batteries. It has some influence. (It may have some consequences)

 

We are not discussion a good or a bad battery, we are discussion whether a battery is charged.

The problem is that most people are not aware that Sealed LAB's are somehow sensitive for being overcharged for a long period of time. While with a liquid LAB, you just put some more distilled water in the battery. You cannot do that with a Sealed LAB. Thus voltages becomes important. Although in principle it does not matter what the voltage is, as long it is > 12.7 Volt at 25 degrees Celcius. But only during charging. As soon the battery is full, the voltage has to be taken away, or reduced to the voltage recommended by the manufacturer.
Bert

 

bye have a nice day,,,all has been said that needs to be said to help the original poster...unsubscribed

 

Except, there is a website which confirms that the lead acid battery is only below 13 Volr, but that SLAB's (Sealed Lead Acid Batteries) are indeed higher.

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery

Also for you have a nice day
Bert

 

I am intending to wire my converted fishing boat( in refit at present see:gazzabomasonbay.blogspot.com) ABOVE GROUND. The new 140 amp alternator is wired as such and I have replaced all senders with isolated 2 contact wiring. I plan on 2 solenoids on the starter pos and neg, so yes the current will flow thru the motor while starting but is then isolated. I did it this way on a new boat I built and installed no zincs and had no trouble. Any comments?