Auto engine marinization

Discussion in 'DIY Marinizing' started by Guest, Jun 10, 2002.

  1. rexxer
    Joined: Mar 2009
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    Location: London Ontario

    rexxer Junior Member

    Thank you CDK. That was the first thing that has made sense to me since buying this boat :)
     
  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    The 3.0 Chevy was very succesful in cars as tens of thousands of taxis can prove. The upside of it is that since they made millions of them, parts are available and relatively cheap. By the time you marinize the other engine it will cost you more in parts and time than rebuilding what you got. Also, it is such a common engine that the machine shop will be familiar with it
     
  3. rasorinc
    Joined: Nov 2007
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    Location: OREGON

    rasorinc Senior Member

    Wasn't this posted originally under another heading? Pleas do not double post.
     
  4. Machineman
    Joined: Jul 2010
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    Machineman Junior Member

    Whatever!

    There are many ways around the problems that are constantly claimed to be too difficult to solve. Basically,
    1. Change the obvious, fuel pump and starter etc for safety.
    2. Do not use raw water, just run a heat exchanger and do not change the engine at all. No gaskets or anodes or ANY of that rubbish. Leave the engine alone in it's own cooling fluid. It will run at normal temps and no "shock from raw water temps" it's all rubbish and fear mongering fuel "boiling" blah blah blah.
    3. Biggest issue is a set of custom exhaust manifolds, that can use an o2 sensor, get em made or make them yourself but save an absolute BOMB of money to power your boat compared to ridiculous marine dealers. They rely on people complying to their way.
    4. Overpower your boat, no need to run at 5000rpm+ to plane, if so you have the wrong gearing/prop. You will read pages of crap here about why it won't work, BUT, if done well, it works better than any marine dealer wants you to know.
    So, be safe, cool your driveline well and set up good monitoring for heat. Ventilate engine bay and fuel storage bay (all things that "marinized" set up's require anyway.)

    I personally think that threads like this fail to understand the point, people would not ask for advice if they had enough $$$ to buy great new marine gear. I have had way more satisfaction in boating by using modern efi engines to power home built hulls with surprising reliability, way more fun than when I got "violated" by a sea Ray salesman when purchasing a 270 sun deck for $80aud.... I have felt like a fool ever since.
    Be safe and marinize anything you want, more fun and cheaper than your local rip off marine merchant.
     
  5. Machineman
    Joined: Jul 2010
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    Machineman Junior Member

    Give Us A Break Please

    Gonzo, have you read the above info, it's a fact, they are the same thing with a sparkless electrical system which is in itself debatable in need. When is the last time a boat exploded and was not leaking LPG, engine fuel explosion? When?

    Save the self promotion for work.
     
  6. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    CDK retired engineer

    This thread is sleeping for a few months already, but I like your attitude.
    Solving the O2 issue is even easier: leave the sensor terminal on the MMU open and it will immediately substitute a fixed value for the sensor output. It also switches the malfunction warning light on, which you can ignore.
     

  7. Machineman
    Joined: Jul 2010
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    Location: Australia

    Machineman Junior Member

    Nice O2 solution.

    Thanks, I have always tried to alter the function of the engines as little as possible but may have wasted a fair slab of time in unnecessary inclusions.
    This will make my next set of manifolds even easier and I'll disconnect the warning light, or like you said, just ignore it.
    Thanks for the tip.
     
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