around in pocket, I I think so

I suppose you realize that the keel, especially in the area of the bulbous bow, is not developable.
In my opinion, keel's are very complicated shapes, too complicated, for a boat trying to be very simple.

 

How large do you think a model need to be to be realistic?

I should think 1/2 scale would be fine, but perhaps even 1/4 scale. 1/8 scale would be easier to find waves that simulate an ocean, but I think the area vs volume scale might throw things off too much, or perhaps not. You could make the bottom rougher I suppose, and even though it becomes overcanvased as you scale down that might simulate stronger winds. So maybe start with 1/8 scale.

Length 16"
Beam 8" or more
Weight = 4 pounds
I suppose you could even use solid wood and carve away, then correct with ballast as needed. This could be fun, and I might even be able to work as fast as Manie. ;-)

 

all you write here is correct
is this that is fascinating in ten design, the solution can be many and differen.
I, in my design i dident think only to nautical qualities, but also at the skipper and the vital space he has need

 

I think I will make a model in the classic method using 1"x10" planks precut to the waterplanes, which I think are 0.75 x 9.5", so every 6" at 1/8 scale. Doesn't make so much sense if I will not end up making the final boat it out of planks on frames, but then again I just might, or at least stringers or strip planks on frames. Could be a very nice looking yacht to thrash around the world in. Might as well go in style.

 

This is steel version. I have also designed a carbon version.
But i see that the difference in weight is not to much, because if the final displacement of the steel one is 1,75 ton, the final displacement that in carbon is 1,5 ton.
So the difference is only in the weight of the hull, but the hull is only 1/3 of the final displacement.
The steel model is very very strong, and the isolation is only where is necessary, near the 2 berths.

 

Yes, when I make my sailing model I should leave room for the skipper, and make a model skipper as well. I currently scale down to 9" tall and 7.2 ounces in weight, but I hope to lose an ounce this summer as I get myself back into sailing shape. I am not sure Ken dolls or GI Joes come in my size, and shape. Maybe start with Gumby. ;-)

This is the before picture...

 

I assure you that the keel is easy to achieve also by non-professionals

 

Would it make sense to design the boat to sail lighter as you eat your way through provisions, or replace some of that weight with water ballast? So what sort of shape might sail well at both 2400 pounds and say 1200 pounds? Also, it might be designed to be able to go to windward better as the voyage progresses. So maybe a design water line at 1800 pounds, and have it still sail well at say 4" above that and 4" below that. Also maybe trim more down in the stern when loaded, like a fishing boat. Need to look at old fishing boats now.

Pinky Schooner "Pride of Salem"

 

Great, I'm glad you think I was wrong because it would have been a big problem for your boat: the newest part of the design, impossible to build. Fortunately you think I was wrong.

 

the final part of the bow keel that you seem difficult, is a tapered development
However I do not tip to anyone to build himself a steel boat to navigate the oceans, but incaricate a professionist to build the hull.

 

maybe this is impossible to build

 

What do you think?. Is that the final appearance of your design?
But it is very sad that a boat, pretending to be so simple, must be "incaricate to professionist" (whatever that means) to built the hull.
However, that does not agree with what you say in post # 112: "I Assure You That the keel is easy to Achieve Also by non-professionals"

 

It is questone of professionalism with welds


Tansl
STOP

 

But before welding, it is necessary to bend the plates, do not you think so?
WindRaf, STOP

 

I rather like the bulbous bow. Not sure how it will perform in waves but they toyed with the idea for 12 meter yachts, partly as a rule beater. The old biremes and triremes would have been the first I suppose, but there were probably some waterlogged dugout canoes long before them. I don't see a serious problem working the steel into that shape because even if it does require a little more time and skill, it is still a relatively small boat, and that is the main thing that makes everything simpler to build, if not to design.