Anyone built an 18ft Ladybug boat?

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Scrappy, Dec 12, 2022.

  1. Scrappy
    Joined: Dec 2022
    Posts: 2
    Likes: 0, Points: 1
    Location: South Mississippi, USA

    Scrappy New Member

    I'm just starting the 18ft ladyboat design and have a for w queations mostly on material.

    1. As far as sealing it says to start with pettit protect Epoxy primer, then antifouling paint for bottom , 2/3 layers Easypoxy undercoat then Easypoxy Finish paint. Will this alone seal the boat well enough. And protect from abrasions. Its gonna be a oyster tonging skiff. So will be rough on it. This is my first build and I'm on a low budget if anyone has a better or cheaper way I'd love to hear your thoughts on it.
     
  2. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    Fiberglass offers the best protection.

    Other guys I know use graphite.

    But cheaper is not going to be the best.

    Some of what you do depends on if the boat stays on a trailer or a dock. Antifouling is important if staying in, but antifouling offers zero protection against abrasion. It is designed to basically fall off easily..

    Let us know if you are trailering or stayin in..

    If staying in, two layers of 6 oz glass on the bottom, then 2-3 neat coats of epoxy, then follow designer.

    If trailering, two layers of 6 oz glass on the bottom, then 2-3 neat coats epoxy, then graphite or a harder paint then antifouling. But the boat can't stay in for more than a week at a time..
     
  3. Scrappy
    Joined: Dec 2022
    Posts: 2
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    Location: South Mississippi, USA

    Scrappy New Member

    I'm leaning heavy on FG. The plans call for using filler for using epoxy silica mix on splices then 1.primer 2.undercoat 3.finish paint but multiple layers of each sanded inbetween coats for the sides. And I guess primer, undercoat, antifouling on bottom. I guess my question is will just layers of paint hold up and if so for what length of time. The boat would pay for Itself in 3 days of work so not really looking for 10 years but Im gonna repaint every year
     
  4. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    Glassing the bottom and the sole are the only way the boat will stand up to all the abrasion. The sole needs more from feet grinding shell bits, etc.

    The draft is key for an oyster skiff. Not sure the Ladybug is the ideal because if pof; that would draft a bit more than a monocoque design that also requires the fg that doubles for abrasion.

    And for lower cost, unless you have the framing; the wood is not cheap vs glass either. But maybe you love the look. It is quite nice; I admit.
     
  5. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
    Posts: 1,383
    Likes: 361, Points: 83
    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Most paints don't hold up against abrasion.
    Truck bedliner is the exception. Although it's texture makes it hard to clean but is great traction.
    The thicker the fg and epoxy on the bottom the longer it will last. Paint directly over the epoxy. NO primer on the bottom. Most primers contain talc. Makes them easier to sand for a better looking top coat. But the talc swells with absorbed water and then causes the top coat to flake off.
     
  6. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    Location: usa

    fallguy Senior Member

    I use Interprotect 2000e. I doubt it has talc. Most antifouling paints expect to go over a prime (of something).
     

  7. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
    Posts: 1,383
    Likes: 361, Points: 83
    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Neat epoxy is sufficient primer for any paint.
    Top coats use aluminum or titanium oxides.
    Primers and undercoaters typically use talc because it makes sanding easier.
     
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