Advice needed on stringer replacment 3250

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by ford-m, Mar 31, 2009.

  1. ford-m
    Joined: May 2007
    Posts: 13
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Whitby Ontario

    ford-m I love Epoxy

    I have cut the tops of the stringers open and removed the old stringers.
    I have left the glass on either side.
    Im now being told I "MUST" remove the glass!!!! by a local glass supplier.
    I called West Systems and they tell me I could do either but advice here is appreciated. I will be using full 21' lengths of Douglas Fir with Epoxy.

    Can any one provide a proper process.

    [​IMG]

    Cheers
    Michael
     
  2. alan white
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 3,731
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    Location: maine

    alan white Senior Member

    How many clamps do you own? Leaving the sides, even if perfect, means you'll have to clamp the whole length at once. It would be easier to concentrate on bedding the underside of the stringer into the hull without concern for bedding in the sides.
    i'd leave enough meat to locate the stringer so it won't move latertally. That might be less than a quarter inch. Instead of grinding, run a sawzall blade across, bending it against the hull surface. The short stubs left will save a little epoxy when you fillet the sides.
     
  3. AroMarine
    Joined: Jul 2005
    Posts: 45
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    Location: Atlantic City NJ

    AroMarine Junior Member

    Michael, I don't know if you have proceeded. But it is possible to drop the wood into your stringer pockets if you have gotten all of the rotten wood out and scraped the inside of the pockets test fit the wood make sure it goes in fairly easily. Then get an extra couple of pairs of hands to help mix your epoxy(thicken with aerosil/fibers) that's a big job you have. As the wood goes in clamp it like Alan says or pre drill holes and screw the glass to the wood. Another option is to remove one side of the glass. Then epoxy the new wood on to the remaining piece which makes placement easy then prep and laminate to the exposed wood which can now use polyester or epoxy. Dont cut out both sides at once trying to locate new wood with little support is a pain in the ...
     
  4. Landlubber
    Joined: Jun 2007
    Posts: 2,640
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    Location: Brisbane

    Landlubber Senior Member

    What ever system you use, and the one sided one is unique to me, sounds like a good idea, just make sure that when you reglass up the mess the gelcoat (flocoat) is ground back wherever you are relaminating, poly will not stick to gel/flocoat correctly.
     
  5. ford-m
    Joined: May 2007
    Posts: 13
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Whitby Ontario

    ford-m I love Epoxy

    Thanks for the reply fellas

    I have the new stringes now installed into the pockets using lots of epoxy and cabosol to thicken.

    Im now in the process of re glassing the tops and sides. So far I have applied about 8-10 layers of 2oz matt to the tops of the stringers.
    Question should I also use Matt to totaly wrap the sides and top anf if so how many layers.

    Also how many layers of 8oz roaving do I use for the sides and top of the stringers.

    Cheers
    Michael

    PS here ia s link to the photos. http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28889
     

  6. Landlubber
    Joined: Jun 2007
    Posts: 2,640
    Likes: 124, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 1802
    Location: Brisbane

    Landlubber Senior Member

    I am working in China and cannot get to see your attached pics, but the stringers would be a layep similar to this.
    1. 1x 300csm
    2. 3x 900db
    3.1x 300csm

    I am assuming you are doing major longitudinals, the engine beds can have an additional layer of 900db.
     
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