A Few Layup Questions

hoytedow · Jan 3, 2011

Never underestimate the value of a good extension handle.

CatBuilder · Jan 3, 2011

hoytedow said: ↑

Never underestimate the value of a good extension handle.
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I have several extension handles of varying sizes and extendability.

I don't understand this. Is everyone suggesting I purposefully put the layup out of my reach and use extensions? Why not have it where I can reach it?

hoytedow · Jan 4, 2011

No . If you can reach it easily doing it a way that works for you, then fine. Sometimes the extension handle comes in handy, that's all.

CatBuilder · Jan 4, 2011

Oh.... whew!

I do feel a lot more comfortable having the lamination job within easy reach so if I run into stupid "new guy" problems, I can grab a hold of it and smooth it, squeegee it, etc...

AndrewK · Jan 4, 2011

CatBuilder said: ↑

Andrew: My reasoning is that if I do it the way I'm describing, I can reach everything. If I don't, I will not be able to physically reach the bilge curve with my hands, only with tools on the end of extensions. So... I figured being a beginner, it is much more likely I will have a successful layup if I can physically touch everything and it is all at about the height of the counter in a galley.

I can really get in there and press, slide, squeegee, whatever... I will be able to touch everything with my hands to help with positioning, wrinkles, excess resin, etc...

That's the reasoning.

My suggestion for starting at the deck radius gives you exactly the same access but with no possibility for sliding onto your second glassing job as it will be uphill. If you start at the bilge your second glassing job is down hill.

I am understanding your last statement, but I am not understanding how to handle the hull/deck radius if I don't stop somewhere near it. So are you saying that you stopped at the sheer line on the topsides, then started again up on the deck and didn't squash your laminate into the hull/deck radius? Did you tape in there?

No my overlap is at the radius, in my case this is only 75mm. Even if you have a 150mm radius what I am saying is that its easier to deal with 150mm width of glass that goes through a 90 deg transition than it is with 450mm.

I had planned to bend part of one of the layups (either topsides or deck layup) over just a bit to cover that radius. I figured maybe the bottom (topsides), horizontal layup might be easiest to press in there, then I would use another run of triax down the entire deck on a different layup.
Yes that's it, just cover the radius dont go 300mm past it.

No good?
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This being your first large glassing job is another reason why I think it would be better to start with the easiest, which is the relatively flat topside.

CatBuilder · Jan 4, 2011

AndrewK said: ↑

Originally Posted by CatBuilder

Andrew: My reasoning is that if I do it the way I'm describing, I can reach everything. If I don't, I will not be able to physically reach the bilge curve with my hands, only with tools on the end of extensions. So... I figured being a beginner, it is much more likely I will have a successful layup if I can physically touch everything and it is all at about the height of the counter in a galley.

I can really get in there and press, slide, squeegee, whatever... I will be able to touch everything with my hands to help with positioning, wrinkles, excess resin, etc...

That's the reasoning.

My suggestion for starting at the deck radius gives you exactly the same access but with no possibility for sliding onto your second glassing job as it will be uphill. If you start at the bilge your second glassing job is down hill.

Andrew, you're still not picturing this right, I'm afraid. The first glassing job would be at chest level in the bilge. I would be standing inside the mold where the topsides will go in the next stage. The second stage would be at knee level, with me standing on the floor near the deck. This is the topsides I glass on the 2nd step. The third glassing job would be the deck at ankle to waist level while I stand on the mostly finished hull. At no time am I ever standing above a section I would be glassing. I would only be standing below them. There is no down hill glassing, only up hill.

I would not be standing on the bilge after glassing it or ever. I would always be standing on the ground, except for when I glass the deck. At that time, I would be standing on the finished topsides and glassing the deck, which is above the topsides in the mold.

I am understanding your last statement, but I am not understanding how to handle the hull/deck radius if I don't stop somewhere near it. So are you saying that you stopped at the sheer line on the topsides, then started again up on the deck and didn't squash your laminate into the hull/deck radius? Did you tape in there?

No my overlap is at the radius, in my case this is only 75mm. Even if you have a 150mm radius what I am saying is that its easier to deal with 150mm width of glass that goes through a 90 deg transition than it is with 450mm.

I had planned to bend part of one of the layups (either topsides or deck layup) over just a bit to cover that radius. I figured maybe the bottom (topsides), horizontal layup might be easiest to press in there, then I would use another run of triax down the entire deck on a different layup.
Yes that's it, just cover the radius dont go 300mm past it.

Oh, ok. We are on the same page here, then. I should have probably been more precise. My fault.

No good?
This being your first large glassing job is another reason why I think it would be better to start with the easiest, which is the relatively flat topside.
This is a valid concern, but my fear of not being able to reach the job is overriding the fear of it being a compound curve. Sorry... I just can't get past that fear this time.
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Post is too short so here is some filler text.

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A Few Layup Questions

hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

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hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

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