1987 Bayliner Transom/Stringer Modification

This boat has a step transom, was OK for the old 125-Force clunker. But I am remodeling the entire boat and the transom snd stringers are in bad shape as well. I want to change the transom set-up to tie into the stringers better and attach to the rest of the stern as well. To see the transom set-up there are some pics of a boat excactly like mine on shareprojects.com,search 1987 Bayliner Bowrider to see the pics. Ant information will be appreciated.

Thanks, Kyle

 

i couldnt even find a search button,,,,or read the page,,,was in some funky language,,,( funky meaning i cant read it) hehe
try saving the images,,then post em

 

Use this in your browser, it should get you there. This is my first boat, I didn`t find the problems with this boat until after I had it for awhile. Turns out the guy that had it before me had done a Jerryrig job replacing the floor. This Einstein use finishing nails to lay the plywood into the STRINGERS, thats only the beginng. Atleast he didn`t damage the hull itself. I could rebuild the same kind of transom that it now has, but I want something stronger. I plan on using this boat in the atlantic waterways and some island hopping around Cape Hatteras and the outer bank islands, not just on lakes. Going to be a site seeing and fishing boat more than skiing ect. I really need some help to make sure that I make the stucture as sound as I can, I can do the cosmetics on my own for the most part. Thanks for the interest Jim.



http://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,323,00.html

 

By the way, the pics of the transom are at the bottom of the page . Just scroll down to them and click on to enlarge. This guy is doing a pretty good job, but even he is undecided on the transom.

 

no problem Kyle,,,first off,,,yup that link worked WAY better hehe ,,second off,,,dont worry bout the carpet,,,if you decide after reading into it you wanna keep it,,,,its a EASY fix.,,the stringers,,,well,,,id go to a few threads here first before waiting for answers,,,,cause truthfully,,,stringer repair has been gone over bout 587364543 times,,,,well maybe not that much,,hehe,,try here,, http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22113
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22134&highlight=stringer repair
heres a start,,,but use the search,,then after that,,you can tell us ya need more help,,,,and all kinds will flock,,,trust me hehe,,but ask in these other threads to,,,the guys there know hehe
next thing,,,,dont get ya panties in a bunch,,hehe,,,stringer replacing is easy,,it just looks scary,,,after your first 1,,,you'll laugh when 1 of ya buddies cry bout his,,,(then ya can charge him big bucks to fix hehe)
nother thing,,,,have you been out in any kind of real waves with that boat yet?

 

Jim covered that very well, as for your transom replacement, I am working my way through that right now and have had many good suggestions. I am replacing mine as is, which I know you want to change yours, but the general idea will be about the same as far as thickness and so forth. http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22113 There are some other posts on transoms, just don't remember them offhand.

 

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16263
found it.lol

 

Thanks Jim/dragon, there is somuch information on the net on boats (especially here) that it is harder to sift through that to find. I`m new at this so I`m sure ,like you said jim, there have been a gazilion answers allready. I just don`t know where they are. When I bought this boat, I really wanted a ceneter console and after the things have have found in here I`m not sure I couldn`t make this boat a CC. That may be grasping for the stars, I don`t know. But back to where I began, I want to make the transom strongerthan before. Most good boats I`ve seen, the transom stretches the entier stern. I`ll check the info you guys have given me, and go from there.

Thanks again!!!

 

Well, shes pretty much gutted. All the wood is out, time to put the sawzaw up and grab the grinder. The guy that had the boat before me really made my work alot harder. In some spots where he replaced the floor, it almost looks like he just poured the epoxy or poly and just let it settle , for the most part. Also I found that the stringers are scribed, not sure how to get them back in the exact same manner. He really made things hard by leaving some of the old wood and attaching the new on top or against and glassing over everything. I will start looking for the material for the stringers and epoxy, mat/cloth and all tomorrow. Not sure what I will find I my area, but I live in Raleigh N.C. and we have a pretty good supply of most anything else I`ve looked for. I do have one question I hope someone will offer some help with. I have read on here that there is a material (foam or something) that you put under the stringers to allow for stress from what I understand. I really would like to know for sure seeing as I am at the point that that will be one of my next steps. And after all this work, I want to do this (to this boat) only once. As for my questions about the transom, someone on another site has a boat identical to mine and he did a heck of a job on his. So (with my 1stproject boat) I will stay with the original design and try to do the best I can with it. Any advice on lumber, epoxy and supplier, type of mat/cloth to use would be definitly be appreciated.

 

wow man,,,,Thanks for the updates,,,so often people will ask a few ?'s then never let us know,,,kind makes "keeping" doing it tire' n after a while,,,,you give me new hope fer man-kind,,hehe

 

Everyone, I am having a hell of of a time doing the final clean up of the hull. I ahve looked here and there to find the right kind of disc or pad to clean out the inside of the hull. Either they only last about 2 min`s, or they clog up before really having any REAL effect. The part that is giving me the most trouble is the painted or whatever it is that was under the bow seats and in the middle of the hull, like where the so called ski locker was supposed to be .And also in the bilge area. I don`t know what that stuff is but it is a very good product evidently, cause it really hangs in there , in every nook and cranny,it`s almost as thick as the hull. Guys this is my first boat, I should have done more research before I bought it I know. But here I am, and hind sight is 20/20. I guess I wanted a boat so bad that i didn`t use my better judgement on picking one out. I can`t take all the blame though, the guy that sold it to me was pretty crafty. He took and put 1x4s in between the floor sections, using stove bolts under the carpet to stiffin the floor. He also used some kind of epoxy patch(a 4x4 cloth type w/epxoy to hold the stern to the splashwell) to hide the transom problem. Man this all makes me sick, but I don`t to just give up. Hard work is what I am accustomed to, but I am out of my field. I could really use some advise .

 

if its just trash ya grinding,,,get a 24 grit disc,,,i cut metal with them hehe.,,,hell,,,use a grinding wheel,,< no dont do that it wont work,,but 24 grit or 36 grit should work,,,,i use a 3" 24 grit to do all my heavy grinding,,,unless its so big ,,,i get a 8",,hehe ,,,,and dont feel bad,,,im pretty sure EVERYONE in here let the thought of a "new toy" cloud our judgments heheee
and it sounds like they used "national" paint on ya,,,,,and YES!!! the crap is like rhino lining hehe
but an $20 small angled die grinder,,,and 1 of those 3" disc packages ya can get at any auto store will for around 12$ will get ya a long wayz hehe

 

Thanks Jim, I`ll difinitley give it a shot. I was really hoping I would be able to use the boat by the first to the middle of June. But unless I take some time off work I don`t think that will happen with only a couple hours a night and part of the weekend that the wife can live with. I feel like I can make better time once the destruction is done and the constuction can begin.

 

your in fer a surprise,,,,sorry,,,,,but the demolition is the FAST,,EASY,,part,, hehe

 

I have a 7" and 24 grit sanding pads with a rubber backing - this works great for big flat surfaces. However, to get in the nooks and crannies, and around bends and all those kind of places, I found some 3M wheels that you stick in a hand drill - they are made of a real coarse fiber that is coated with some magic grit stuff, and they cut very fast with just a drill. I don't have the name of them, but I've got some new ones with the tags on them - bought at the local hardware store. They really work great - you can grind off gelcoat down into the fibers if you aren't careful, but they really take the effort out of removal of paint, extra resin, can smooth off plywood corners, remove warts, cure ingrown.... well, you get the idea!

I'll find the name and part number of them if you're interested.