17 Foot Planing Center Console Design

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by nacra5.8, Sep 4, 2011.

  1. m3mm0s rib
    Joined: Aug 2011
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    m3mm0s rib Senior Member

  2. DCockey
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    DCockey Senior Member

    What you find easier to do with the software is a bad way to determine hull shape.

    How much do you know about the fundamentals of boat design beside kind of being able to use some software?

    Even though the USCG regulations on small boat load capacity, floatation, etc don't directly apply to a boat you build for your own use they are provide good guidance, particularly for a 17' boat to be used with 6 pasengers in 30 knot winds and a 3 foot "chop".
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    . . . and blasting along around 40 knots . . .
     

  4. joelsimpson
    Joined: Sep 2011
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    Location: United States

    joelsimpson New Member

    For comparison, I have recently designed and built a small planing boat after 40 years on the water. It is used in the Chesapeake bay and I run it at planing speeds of 13 to 32 Kts. The boat is 18' LOA moderate V forward and flat in the stern. Scantlings are 3/8 marine fir sides, washboards and combings, 3/4" bottom (double 3/8") except for the forward vee which is 3/8". The bow is decked back 4' to the 3" combing which goes back to the stern. Washboards (sidedecks) are 10" and are completely boxed in with 2" flotation all the way to the stern and under the forward deck. The stern is 1" cyprus sandwhiched between 3/8 marine fir. Chines logs are laminated marine ply. All joints are epoxied and fastened and have generous epoxy filets. Sides, and bottom 10 oz glassed in epoxy inside and out. All other surfaces glassed outside. Chines and stern joints have 3 layers of glass inside and out. This boat has been used for 5 years in good weather and bad, is incredibly stiff due to the side and forward decks and combing, and can take a beating. If I were to rebuild it, I would not reduce any of the scantlings.
     
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