I don't see the obvious references to refer the OP to for a Western Proa, that is HarryProa, whose designs specialise on twin mast, long hull rigs
These specs will be of direct relevance to the project, including the solving of rig operation, balance effects etc.
There is certainly no problem with directional control on any point of sail. Some sail areas and designs for the OP to consider.
Note for Rob Denney - your website
Designs – Harryproa http://harryproa.com/?page_id=2762 comes up with "Not Secure". May need some attention when you can relax from your tropical island "holiday"
Thanks for posting. The web page is being replaced as I type, although none of the 'experts' could shed any light on 'Not Secure'.
Some thoughts:
Proas, especially ones with low volume windward hulls require rigs that, when caught aback in a breeze, weathercock. ie they align with the wind. Otherwise you may capsize the wrong way. The crab claw option of the rig falling down is an option for smaller sizes.
Beams and stays should also be sized and supported for this non-weathercocking caught aback load. ie if the beams need the shrouds to support them in normal sailing, they may need waterstays for caught aback in a breeze situations. Fore/backstay angles should also be considered if they are holding up the mast when the breeze is from the wrong side.
None of which is a problem if you don't sail in a breeze, and/or never get caught aback. The test is to sail with full sail (and max ballast) with the windward hull just flying, then push the helm down and tack. Proa designers who consider this, end up switching to unstayed rigs. The rest sail very cautiously.
Sails supported only by stays exert huge compression loads on the mast and it's supports and get fuller as the wind increases, the opposite of what is required.
Wing sails are great, but tricky to trim. Solid ones are fragile and can't be reefed, soft ones lose shape in a breeze if the leading edge dimples.
Balance is many facetted. In my 25 years plus proa experience rockerless hulls, rudders at around 25% and 75% of the lee hull work well with crab claws, single mainsails, aero rigs (jib on an extension of the main boom, all rotating together) and schooners. The
mini cargo proa could be steered by moving one person fore and aft between the masts, the
Visionarry steered itself for 20 minutes at a time with the rudders locked fore and aft. Single mainsail versions are easily steered (upwind and reaching) with the front rudder, the aft one acting as a leeway preventer.
The windward hull water drag does not make a heap of difference unless the boat is really wide or has a draggy windward hull. If it did, when you flew a hull, proas (and cats) would bear away dramatically. They don't.
I deplore the use of daggerboards on common sense and safety grounds, but even if I didn't, they don't belong in the windward hull if you are concerned about weatherhelm.
Hulls with rocker don't only have lower top speeds, they pitch more and tend to trim bow down, exacerbating any weather helm issues. Rocker is handy for boats that need to turn sharply to tack, but add to build time and complexity on proas.