Facet pump continues to work great.

Updating my experience, the Facet-Seachoice pump continues to work great.
Best fuel pump for the boat so far, so glad I got them and gave up on all the other types of fuel pumps. They were garbage. They corroded horribly (on the inside due to E10), got stuck, they would sometimes overpressure, noisy, would OVERHEAT and vapor lock....

And the OEM rubber diaphragm pumps would also corrode and the rubber disintegrate, then they leak.

I tried to reply on my thread, but it was too old.
Seachoice fuel pump = Facet fuel pump https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/seachoice-fuel-pump-facet-fuel-pump.53751/

 

Good update. The brass housing definitely makes a difference. Steel corrodes at a faster rate. All the big industries are littered with bulk consumer commodities today are designed to fail. I believe the term is "designed obsolescence". They're either made of the wrong material, weak in certain spots or will fail in some other way. The big companies want people to buy spare parts. It's a big money business. Bravo for outsmarting them.

It's a good habit to scan stuff you buy on Amazon and forums like this where "real" people are allowed to write product reviews and rate a product. Really helps on filtering out junk sold by some stores!

 

Still working good as new. Very happy with all 3 of them. Primes every time.
I did discover the one for the generator carb, If your float sticks shut, of course the pump can not prime cause it needs to push air out of the fuel line, yes common sense, but you dont always think of things like that. I have it wired up to manually prime, off, run, using a 3 position switch for the electric pump. So this way I can run the gen carb dry by turning off the pump when I want to shut it down, which is a real good thing. My switch is a momentary on-off- on switch, and very glad to have it, the momentary on is for manually priming before starting. Other thing, when these pumps are priming against no pressure, they sound louder, so you can tell when fuel is pressurzed in the carb by the sound it makes, very handy to tell you it is getting fuel into the carb.

I also found out, the Onan MCCK air resonator which sits on top of the carb really really needs a drip edge. If water rains on the gen, rain will roll under the resonator. move horizontally and leak into the carb through the brass spark arrestor. I made that discovery and finally solved the water getting into the carb issue. As a test, I used a strip of aluminum duct tape, ran it all around and formed the drip edge, and after the winter in the spring it primed and started without me needing to take the carb apart like every year I have owned this boat. Yes common sense to not have your gen sitting under a leaky hatch, so there it is. Since this is a generator from 1970, about 50 years too late. But there are still old Onans out there using this style of resonator ontop the carbs.

 

ALSO, another advantage. The ethanol fuels we are forced to use would corrode those lousy rotary vane pumps on the inside. That fine metallic corrosion lookimg like a gray powder would pass through filters and settle inside my carbs. After switching to the Faucet, no more corrosion, no more buildup inside the carbs. It could be the vanes wearing down the metal instead of corrosion. But I have taken apart the Carters and saw white corrosion on the pot metal.

Here are photos from when I was using the rotary vane pumps, if you zoom in you will see it. Interestingly, the carbs continued to run ok.
https://goo.gl/photos/qMVsmFSPwbVhG7CB8