TEOTWAWKI Boat

As originally designed, there were 30 inches between hulls, but trailer I have only allowed hulls to be 24 inches apart. I can change that width if I re-rig trailer. Not likely at this particular time. Maybe later on.

 

My MinnKota is a 30 lbs "toy"
I am glad I tried it - now I know it's a waste of time
my boat is hopelessly too big for an electric - on a dead calm day it's fun for 10 minutes - then when you see the battery is half flat you realise it's just not worth it

 

Electric trollers are great for little canoes and skiffs. Beyond that they are ridiculous unless you have nuclear power.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nuclear_submarine

 

extend the hulls?

Maybe try extending the hulls via a folding schooner type mechanism?

folding schooner

Seems like that would help some.

 

That's a cool idea. I probably won't do it but it is a cool idea.

 

But I might.

 

I could turn it into a hover craft if I add a lawn mower engine in the middle and stringers outside the bottom chines.

 

That is a good idea. For instance you might add adjustable sponsons at the stern with a hinge at the bottom. This will lengthen the hulls, give more static lift and you can adjust the hydrodynamic lift you need by modifying the angle.

To change the interferences between the hulls you have already written, that you might change the distance.

But I think you will find your own solutions. In my opinion this is the most interesting time to optimize your little catamaran for your special needs and to give it the trim you prefer.

 

I am certainly considering it while I take a breather and enjoy the boat as it is for a while.

 

That`s wisdom.

 

So, what's your issue with nuclear?

I suppose it could be a tad expensive.

Over the top even...

But, man, think of the power!!!

 

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Hoyt, might a pair of assymetrical hulls alleviate or cure this problem?

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Hmmmm.....sounds like the only cure for this is length, and that would kill the original idea of carrying it to the campsite.

Roger

 

Looking for simple solutions, did you add the spray rails you mentioned earlier yet?

Some discussions here might be of use:

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/boat-design/spray-rail-design-3542.html
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/hy...-spray-rails-40920.html?highlight=spray rails
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/multihulls/spray-rails-21104.html?highlight=spray rails
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/powerboats/spray-rails-9266.html?highlight=spray rails
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/materials/building-spray-rail-what-wood-14372.html

 

Having now had the boat out a few times on protected waters, it hasn't shipped any water. I crossed a few decent wakes from a larger boat that did not bury the bow at all. Of course I was only making 7 knots at the time. Trim tabs are probably the easiest solution along with re-building the seat platforms from epoxy-sealed styro-foam blocks to add more flotation in the back half of the boat. The sliding plywood seat platforms were always meant to be a temporary testing apparatus. The fold-down stern hull extensions also seem to be in the boat's future.

 

Hoyt, can you safely stand in the back and mount/dismount the motor? That was what I based my aft floatation on. I wanted to be able to get the outboard off it's bracket on the sailboat and onto the dink while standing in the dink. It's still a bit of a challenge as far as reach and balance are concerned, but I won't sink. I just have to stay in the boat. I can stand in one hull corner holding the motor. A solid block of styrofoam is pretty cheap to experiment with. Mine has somehow gotten left in place for seven years.