if you were building over frames and cost wasn't a consideration, i would recommended c-flex. i have a boat built of the stuff and it gives good...
an update on progress so far: i've been reading books about boat design and, specifically, 12 metre designs and paying close attention to the...
scaling down i asked similar questions about my 1/3 model of an america's cup racer. there are formulas for scaling down. some of them are found...
i have a tank test model for stars & stripes off of which i could take some approximate numbers but they probably woudn't be accurate enough for...
will adobe acrobat work? who wrote the book and is it a good one to show the design components? thanks
if you find the plans, i would like a copy, too. i'm building from a tank test model of '87 stars & stripes.
any pics of your electric drive?
well, i'm dizzy from trying [unsuccessfully] to figure out the numbers, but i seem to remember an america's cup 12 meter that had twin keels....
gonzo, i have to wonder about a "hard spot" causing a structural failure. seems the hull would have to be awfully flexible to begin with to have...
okay, that makes sense. the rudder post is a solid, round bar that doesn't extend through the deck. i'll have to build an extension in which to...
well, the whole thing is aluminum so i don't know how it would lift. the top [inside the hull] already has a collar. so maybe a nylon bushing...
no, just a post. the keel isn't that large. it has a wing on the aft part. you can see it at: http://www.acmuseum.com/portfolio/starsstrips87.htm
haven't done it but i always thought sinking fence posts and attaching the strongback to them is a solid way to go.
now i have to figure out how to make the inboard rudder work. the one on the boat is aluminum on an aluminum post. no tiller, no bearings, no way...
if it is structural, laying up a big ole patch on the inside of the hull gives strength without uglifying the outside.
