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BlackDogCats make asymmetrical aluminium PowerCats in NZ. Their smallest model is 4m. A lot more boat than you are considering, but they might provide some inspiration. I test drove one. They stay level in turns and track nicely. They are horrid in a short chop though.

The crack isn't spreading, but I want to repair it - so I can sell the boat. All the kids have left home so we're downsizing.

The outboard is a Johnson 70HP, carburetted two stoke. Manufactured in ~2001. I don't think there is any central connector, just a few plugs and some single wire connections . However, if I disconnect all electrical connections to anything external to the outboard, I should be OK, right?

The outboard is a Johnson 70HP, carburetted two stoke. Manufactured in ~2001. I don't have any photos sorry. I keep the boat in storage some distance away. The incident happened when I was surf-launching the boat at a pebble beach. I surmise that the prop picked up a pebble and it was forced...

By harness do you mean the connection to the throttle box and instruments?

These are ballast tanks. For seawater. No fuel.

I went a bit too shallow this weekend and the prop picked up a stone or similar and cracked the cavitation plate. So now I have a little crack and dent in the cav plate. My plan is to tap it back into shape against a flat block, then prep and TIG weld the crack. My question is: Do I need to...

Yes, transverse baffles with limber holes would be part of the structure of the chambers. They would prevent longitudinal sloshing and provide structural strength.

The chambers are open at the transom. At rest the opening is below the waterline, so the chambers naturally flood. When planing they naturally drain. If you want to keep the chambers fill when planing then a flap is closed over the openings in the transom

Now that the kids are all grown, and moved out, we've sold our alloy powerboat which was suitable for up to six people, and we are downsizing to something suitable for two. The plan is to find an old V16 or V17 Haines hunter and do a rebuild. The idea is to make a little pocket-battleship...

Thanks Jape, that's really helpful feedback. On that basis, I'll have some difficult questions for the distributor and likely won't be buying. A shame really as the concept is perfect for the application.

I see your punk rock and raise it to Metallica! You don't just hear the music at a Metallica concert, you feel it in your chest.

If you installed diesel OBs you could just run a little diesel jet heater. Those do a really good job heating boats, motorhomes etc.

I'm slowly making everything as identical as possible across boats. Engines, hydraulics, pumps, electronics, deck-gear ...

For me it's the survey hassles. Every survey the prop shafts and rudder have to come out. With outboards you just have to recondition the skin fittings and visually inspect the hull. Up and down within 48 hours. My boats don't make money on land. Also I can have a spare outboard and swap...

[1] Outboards tilt, so easy to address entanglement [2] You just fit a riser onto the top of the jet casing, that comes to above waterline height, and have removable cap on it. Then you can access the impeller without significant water ingress. Lots of the lobster guys here have that set up...

Electric winches/rams would need to be AC. They'd be exposed to the elements. Too much risk. Almost all our deck gear is hydraulic, it just works

A few mussel farmers here have tried surface drives. They've all ditched them. Because of breakages and entanglements. Mussel farm structures are widest at the surface. Therefore, a propellor is most vulnerable to entanglement at the surface. A surface drive also protrudes aft of the...

I'm now no longer sure I understand what OP has planned :). If it's using the keel cavity as sort of open-topped reservoir to circulate cooling from ... I wouldn't. I'd go with an enclosed system. That might still use the keel cavity, but it would need a sealed top, and a plumbed inlet and...