35' cat concept for the inside passage.

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Boston, Dec 6, 2011.

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  1. Boston

    Boston Previous Member

    I haven't since I don't have a profile I like well enough to dig further into yet.

    Reminder, this is just a drill, in the event of a actual emergency you would have been less informed.
     
  2. Boston

    Boston Previous Member

    that and I'm still reading some of the Sharpie threads

    here's a jewel I lifted from Par on the subject.

    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/boat-design/30-plywood-sharpie-30029-10.html

    its post #147

     
  3. eyschulman
    Joined: Jul 2011
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    Location: seattle Wa USA

    eyschulman Senior Member

    Up in the north west it is not only fuel you have to worry about in the summer months, good water is often hard to come by especially on islands. If you go with watermaker it adds to energy needs in the end it comes back to extra weight. As good as a light well designed multi can be an overweight multi can be a real piggy. A couple inches down on the waterline will not do in a dispacement or semidisplacement boat but will sure do a number on the multi.If you want fuel efficency do a very light multi or a long and narrow dislacement hull. If you need a compromise a semidisplacement
     
  4. masalai
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: cruising, Australia

    masalai masalai

    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/boat-building/my-little-piece-peace-25962-121.html#post499727 - I get 10.1 knots at 3600 on both and 6.7 knots on either at 3000rpm - is that enough to meet your needs and expectations? - The engines are 20hp kubota 722cc 3 cylinder with a sail-drive leg using a 2.56:1 gearbox ratio in fwd and reverse ... for 1400rpm at the propeller at max engine rpm... pushing around 4500kg, (10,000 pounds), of boat... at 3000 rpm each engine burns 3 litres/hour... Where the radar mast is, I can still fit a 40 ft mast and put a pair of 45 square metre (480 sq ft) genoa, hanked on to stays running to each bow, (chain-plate built in too), and operate sail-powered in breezes from 1 to 18knots over the deck with light-weight 'cloth'

    Reshaped profile something like this....? is about the only major 'visual' change I would make... (Front windshield profile - flat glass across the front with triangular adjustment for the ends/corners... At the rear, move the bulkhead section to the aft edge of the 'duckboard' so the side doors could be larger and the engine bays located forward about 18 inches and also 18 inches longer - up to the aft end of the aft berth...)
     

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  5. Boston

    Boston Previous Member

    your on a foam core mate, I'm thinking plywood. Been following along your thread and something you mentioned once you were done was that it might be a little big. You had suggested a 30 footer next time, the DYI ones that are getting so much discussion over on the 30 plywood cat thread. I'm thinking 35' but I've got a lot of stuff I'd want aboard. Like all of it. So although I'm exploring my options I'm leaning back towards the mono hull. I gotta wonder if a pig like cat is any worse than a pig like mono. Its more expensive to build but there's a lot of usable space. And its a great platform for tourists. Harder to destabilize if they all run over to one rail.

    One option is to buy or rent a mooring. At which point length is less of an issue. Its cost to park that I'm most concerned about, not necessarily build cost. Although thats always of some concern.

    Oh hey
    where'd old Bob Oram disappear to
     
  6. masalai
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: cruising, Australia

    masalai masalai

    Hi Boston,
    Like all things I too am revising what I feel best suits my future needs, and if I build again it will be glass over ply to the same design (well almost)... Around 40 ft long and 21.5 ft wide seems close to ideal for where I cruise, with or without sails... - I may be tempted to go to 50 hp and underwater lines similar to the aft sections of the C10 by Robin Chamberlin... You may like its larger version "Foreign Affair" at 14m and capable of crossing, (has done so twice), the coral sea...

    Found 2 more images on the C10
     

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  7. Boston

    Boston Previous Member

    I like that one but its so low and sleek looking I gotta wonder where all the reserve buoyancy is and if its got enough tunnel clearance
     
  8. sabahcat
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    Location: australia

    sabahcat Senior Member

    Somehow I think Robin has a lot more knowledge about these things than you.
    And me for that matter.
     
  9. masalai
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    masalai masalai

    "Foreign Affair" has crossed "the ditch" between Australia and NZ twice to my knowledge, cruised down to Tasmania on the initial sea-trials run, ventured around New Caledonia, Vanuatu and also Fiji I think? so ocean passage making is amply demonstrated...

    http://www.amsa.gov.au/shipping_registration/list_of_registered_ships/Page_21.asp
    FOREIGN AFFAIR II 857355 14.25 2003 Motor Yacht Brisbane Registered

    http://multimarket.multihull.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=26&Itemid=45 is mostly on the C10, whose heritage was (or to become) "Foreign Affair"
     
  10. WestVanHan
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    Location: Vancouver

    WestVanHan Not a Senior Member

    More weight and space-don't forget it's good to have a decent sized freezer for salmon,prawns,and crab.
     
  11. Boston

    Boston Previous Member

    I suppose all I've come up with so far is a few bad sketch's. I don't think any of what I've come up with so far works. Basically even my latest is short and fat, not attributes I was looking for in a boat. Just doesn't look right.

    My displacement hull design looks OK ( that Elco looking thing I posted earlier ) or at least I think it does, mostly because its pretty much just a modern version of an existing boat. But apparently drawing up an antique version of an existing boat is a bit more difficult. I'm not interested in a pig, if its modern materials that makes for the modern cat then trying to build one out of hardwoods and ply is just not going to work. OK maybe just ply but still I think it would end up heavy at 35'

    I'd need to go 45 in order for the hulls to still be the shape you guys are describing and still hold the amount of weight in "stuff" i'd want to jam on that boat.

    That and I'm just not so keen on the idea of a paper thin hull in an about the rockiest area of the world I could land.

    Anyway I've got a busy weekend coming up and I'm not going to be able to pound out any more drawings for a day or two.
     
  12. masalai
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: cruising, Australia

    masalai masalai

    Ahhhhgh Boston,
    Do not despair, 40 ft x 21 is quite nice and in "thin" marine-ply is not to heavy, if covered inside and out with cloth using West System resins... 400gsm may be sufficient - even with your rocky shores, especially if you make lower minikeels...and double skin the bottom...

    If I get to build another it will be all marine ply glassed over... Only to reduce the accidental "bruising" damage I get occasionally on the above waterline parts...
     
  13. Boston

    Boston Previous Member

    no despair really, just realizing that all the tricks I'd want to add to any boat I'd build simply don't work on a cat. I want a seriously tough bottom, cant do it on a cat, its to heavy. I want some nice wood work, can't do it on a cat, to heavy. I want a nicely proportioned retro style look, not on a cat, unless you get up in the 45' range. Which will cost a fortune to park. I want to be able to load up for bear, not on a cat they are apparently very weight sensitive.

    All in all I might explore the idea a bit further but all this plus the initial build cost being slightly higher and I'm thinking my exploratory found what answers I was looking for.
     
  14. WestVanHan
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    WestVanHan Not a Senior Member

    I don't know about AK but in BC you need to watch out for dead head logs as well.
    Whales and Orcas-you know they're around and just stay well out of their way.
     

  15. Boston

    Boston Previous Member

    Ya thats another one that definitely concerned me. The paper thin hulls on a cat would be subject to greater damage. Possibly unsurvivable damage even at low speeds. My idea of filling the entire below water line area with flotation or of beefing up the hulls similar to how a sharpie works also is not going to work on a cat.

    To bad really I can't help but think that some kinda style yet found would have looked nice on a 35' and still allowed for all the safety measures I'd want to include.

    Oh well looks like I"m back to the Elco clone with the killer wood work interior and the chine form hull. Reason. Ply is way easier to repair than planking or cold molding.

    [​IMG]
     
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