Yrvind 4.2 mt. Cold Molding adhesived 3 layers of 0.4 mm Stainless Steel Stripes

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by mustafaumu sarac, Aug 15, 2021.

  1. mustafaumu sarac
    Joined: May 2017
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    Location: Istanbul

    mustafaumu sarac Senior Member

    I want to own Sven Yrvind, Matt Layden 4.2 meters design. I cant transport big plywood sheets and I cant secure from elements. I cant use polyester / epoxy GRP due to high odor. I will build the boat in mini forest , every day thousands of people and cars crosses.

    I want to use cleanest production method and still final product is better.

    With investment of 1200 dollars , I am thinking to order 20 square meters of 0.4 mm thick, 10 cms wide stainless steel stripes to cold molding 3 layers , total thickness 1.2 mm , polyurethane adhesived boat on stainless steel posts. It will be around less than 280 kilograms empty.

    I saw at a shop , same stripes as a roll out of aluminum, if I can access to marine grade , what would be needed the final thickness ? I am thinking loudly , aluminum can be 1 mm thick and than at sea side , I can GRP inside. Outer layer would give the hardness and internal GRP would give the flexibility. Costs are lower , boat is lighter and more secure. It could be monocoque also.

    thickness ................wideness......................int.dia........................,out.dia.
    0,18 - 1,00 mm.........21 - 500 mm........ 300 / 400 / 508 mm ...........1750 mm maks.
    5000 OR 8000 ALLOY
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2021
  2. kapnD
    Joined: Jan 2003
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    kapnD Senior Member

    I think you may have forgotten to cover the styrene bottle.
    Those fumes can make you have some wild ideas!
    Skyak likes this.
  3. bajansailor
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: Barbados

    bajansailor Marine Surveyor

    Mustafa, I am in agreement with KapnD here - please do not try to build a boat like how you are proposing above. It will only end sadly, and you will lose a lot (relatively) of money in the process.

    Do you really still want to build the boat shown in this thread which you started a few years ago?
    Yrvind 4.2 meter boat plan https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/yrvind-4-2-meter-boat-plan.59650/

    Sven Yrvind 4.2m boat.jpg

    Take note of the wise comments by Angelique in this thread.
    If you have a passion for Sven's boats, then his Exlex (photo below) would be a better bet, but even Sven was not happy with this boat, and I think he wants to build an 'improved' version now.

    Sven's Exlex.jpg
  4. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
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    Location: Victoria BC Canada

    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _

    Sika 117 for bonding metals.

    How far is the journey, 1200km?
  5. Robert Biegler
    Joined: Jun 2017
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    Location: Trondheim

    Robert Biegler Senior Member

    You could call Sven and ask whether you can buy the boat. If I remember correctly, the EU Small Craft Directive forbids the sale of experimental boats within five years of their completion, but I think that boat has passed that limit.

    Have you tried how strongly the glue bonds to either metal? Do you know how strong you need the bond to be? Has anything been built by cold-moulding steel or aluminium?

    You may have gone through the Loctite web site already: Metal Glue: All You Need to Know https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/know-how/fix-stuff/metal-glue.html It mentions clamping pressure. When cold moulding with wood, that is done with staples, and the holes filled after. How will you do that with metal?

    As for GRP on the inside, I have tried to epoxy glass fibre to aluminium. Having read that aluminium forms an oxide layer very quickly, and that epoxy doesn't stick well to it, and that you have to sand the metal with epoxy already on it, I tried that. It still didn't stick. I have read that it can be done, so I must have done it wrong. But perhaps the mistake was simply that epoxy for laminating is very different from epoxy made as metal glue.
  6. Squidly-Diddly
    Joined: Sep 2007
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    Location: SF bay

    Squidly-Diddly Senior Member

    I say "go for it" because this new method of construction will be interesting to see.

    But I suggest you do a much smaller test-build of a 6ft dingy or 10ft canoe first. For less than 1/8th the cost you will be able to see if your construction method is going to work. You might learn something and change how you lay it up which you wont be able to change once you start with the big boat.
    DogCavalry likes this.
  7. Andrew Kirk
    Joined: Jul 2021
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    Location: Chorley UK

    Andrew Kirk Pedal boater.

    I applied a strip of grip to my aluminium hull and it remains firmly stuck in place. I used polyester resin. I’d only build a boat using metal sheet, though, not strips. That way there are so many less places to potentially leak.

  8. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    Can you actually post some numbers to justify that statement? I bet the weight is much higher and so will be the cost. If you are willing to fiberglass the inside, what is stopping you from building a fiberglass boat?
    clmanges likes this.
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