Yanmar 6LP upside down oil filters.

Frosty,

Yes, you certainly could make one this way. I found a couple on the net already made this way. They are called 'spin on adapters' since they use the threaded nipple already installed on the engine block to hold the adapter in place. These can work but be warned that they are less versatile than the 'bolt on adapter' since you don't know which way the thing is going to point once it tightens up. So you have to choose where the oil line pipe connections will be. With the bolt on style I showed you, you can point the lines in any direction you want, then tighten the nut. If you choose to make or use one of this style, I suggest that you point the oil line exit fittings down (or in your case upwards as your filter is upside-down) then once tightened in place, you can then install 90* elbows then attach the oil lines. This will give you the most versatility in placement. Still not as easy as the 'bolt-on' style adapter, but good enough.

Jimbo

 

Frosty:

FYI - on my Toyota 1HZ (Non-turbo version of the 1HD) the oil filter face is sort of vertical on the side of the block - the filter sticks out generally horizontally, but tilted up - perhaps 30 degrees?. There are no drain-back issues, and the Toyota oil filters are over 5 times the price of generic Chevy/Ford filters from a jobber. The 6LP's must have some sort of adapter already in place, to turn the filters vertical.. Putting adapters on adapters isn't good design...

It is my understanding that the Toyota filters have double elements (one inside the other), and have much better level of filtration than most other automotive style filters out there. I would suspect the Yanmar filter is a re-labeled version of that filter.

Also, automotive style filters tend to be pure crap compared to industrial style filters, and I'd be very cautious about switching to some other "cheap" filter that doesn't offer the level of protection that the stock filtration might.

 

Mann and Wix are the best filter makers in the world yet their pricing is very competitive. No need to buy overpriced OEM filters. You don't think Toyota and Yanmar actually make their own filters, do you? GM was the only OEM still making their own, but even they spun off (wow, a oil filter pun ) the AC/Delco division, so not true anymore.

The parts/support divisions of the major OEM's including Toyota, make more money than the manufacturing end. One reason is their parts are so overpriced. Yet owners may be compelled to use them while under warranty.

Jimbo

 

If I can spin the filter off and there is nothing in it, then thats is the problem.

I have removed the filter washed it and experimented with it on the bench by blowing in air and the spot welds under the sealing ring leak , as does all the filters I have checked. If I super glue the spot weld ring it is much better.

You saying you dont have a problem and the fact that I would not believe that Toyota would put up with such a thing is concerning, however the problem lies with draining filters on my engine.

The marine version has exactly the same angle of filter as does yours yet its on an oil cooler that is alluminium and can be removed (horrible idea)

There are restrictor valves in that filter block which I feel balance the pressure of oil traveling through the cooler or the filter as it is free to go both ways if it wants.

I can get no information on this prob so I have to go it myself and that is a proper up facing filter which will cure the prob.

Yes the Toyota filters have a double stage affair thing ,--its nothing flash mostly bull **** having a fine and a course filtration, an excuse or reason depending how you look at it to charge ridiculous prices.

Google up oil filters and the whole world is at present totally pissed off with crap filters.

Making an adaptor to get the oil up to a dual filter holder with some cheap Fram PH8 or the like seems to me to be better than what I have.


My engines are 5 years old with 170 hours on them ,--no thats not a typo. I have changed oil 3 times and its still like gold color.I hav'nt changed it for 2 years.

I Crank the engines for 10 seconds with stop button in, until I release it. It will fire immediately, this cures the prob and I get lights out in 2 seconds.



Yanmar insisted that I use Yanmar filters and that this was my problem. I told then that the engines were delivered with Toyota filters on them. The paint job the Aussie supplier made did not cover the Toyota printing. It took 3 days to reply to that one, then they told me the truth, the engines were Toyota based. 54,000 ausie dollars for 2, and then they told me to get a life.

Sorry to go on about it but now you know the whole story. Wont be buying Yanmar again.

What can i do but fit an external kit.

 

Jimbo:

I'm a professional mechanical engineer with 30 years experience in industrial machine design, and have specified, purchased and commissioned many hydraulic systems over the years - for 10 years, it was approx. 50% of my work load. I know a little bit about filtration.. And my point is, if the manufacturer(s) do not publish Beta ratios about their filtration, supported by independent testing, any comparison is just speculation and opinion.

Frosty:
I'm not sure exactly what Yanmar does to the engines to marinize them - the intake and exhaust manifolds, external oil heat exchanger, and inter-cooler are definitely different (along with the HP output). Stock from Toyota, both the 1HD and the 1HZ have an oil/coolant heat exchanger in the side of the block - perhaps Yanmar changes these out also..

The Landcruisers shut the engines down if the oil pressure does not build quick enough - something like 10 seconds IIRC. I've never had this happen to me, even starting at -30C - thus my comment about drain-back not being a problem on my engine. I'm not saying it isn't a problem on yours. One of tricks the landcruiser community uses is a switch in the oil pressure sensor wire, to serve as an anti-theft device. The vehicle will fire and run, then shut-down.

I pointed out the double level of filtration of the Toyota filters, in case you did not know about it. I suspect it is handy in the outback, and increases the dirt capacity of the filter before it clogs and by-passes. Keeps the big chunks from clogging the fine filtration. Personally, I haven't seen many boats that operate in dusty environments all of the time, so keeping the rocks out of the engine is a much easier task in the marine environment, and likely negates the need for the coarse filtration.

Are you aware of Accusump systems? They can prime the engine before it cranks, greatly reducing wear.. However, I believe your remote filtration, vertical filter system is the first thing to do - it has the added benefit of keeping the mess under control during changes, and puts the filters where you can get at them.

It's a pity about Yanmar's response - those 1HD's are just about the sweetest running diesel made.

 

My personal recommendations on filtration were posted earlier to another thread:

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/di...l-filter-relocation-kit-27898.html#post281477

Jimbo

 

This thread and it participants has woken me up. I e mailed Yanmar Europe yesterday and got a reply. They asked for confirmation i was using the Yanmar filter ( the one at 48 pounds each).

I said I was using the Toyota 90915 30002 that was in the engine when it was delivered. They know --I know_ and Toyota know that it is a 90915 30002 repainted.

Evidence of this is on the internet especially Yanmar forums where guys have wiped paint off to find 90915 30002.

Its gone quite again now, but I cant wait to hear what they say.

 

A solution would be to hold the fuel solenoid shut while cranking until oil pressure comes up, then allow fuel to flow, engine to start.
I know this isnt the solution you are looking for, but it can get you by without engine damage until you find something better.
If you do use a remote, it would be easy to install an inline check valve to insure the oil will not drain back reguardless of where you mount the filters.
Fleetguard offers some real top quality filters, and the guys at Seaboard Marine can probably steer you to the right stuff. They are also Yanmar dealers, and are probably already familiar with the problem.

 

The best friend anyone can have is the guy at a big auto
parts store.

FRAM , and others have a huge cross reference catalog

First look up the engine of concern and find the STOCK filter the mfg or marinizer specs.

Write down all the details , base size , diameter thread size , check walve whatever is specked.

Then go to the back of the catalog and using the specifications you will get a list of all the other filters that are a direct match.

Many times a taller, longer filter can be found that is otherwise an identical match.

If you hace the room , bigger IS better.

On an antique Volvo the V filter was a tiny little thing , in order to show builders a narrow engine at selection time.

The Fram Ph 8A which is used on every Ford since Henry started is a perfect , but longer fit.

$2.89 instead of $19.00 for a bigger better filter.

Sure worth 15 min digging in the the parts book!

FF

 

Reply from Yanmar Europe,--engines OK!!!!

But,--they wont tell me how long it should take. Ive been given the run around now for 5 years. I will never ever ever buy Yanmar again.

7-10 seconds Is not ok. Yes I do crank with the stop button in. People on the dock say ---its a poor starter isnt it!!