WRC Composite build

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by YoungGrumpy, Jun 6, 2012.

  1. YoungGrumpy
    Joined: May 2012
    Posts: 64
    Likes: 4, Points: 8, Legacy Rep: 34
    Location: New Jersey

    YoungGrumpy Junior Member

    Got myself the plans, gonna build the boat.
    First issue:
    Plans are for WRC strip, 400 g bi-axial cloth both in and out, for no bridgedeck 26 ft cat. Thing is, local lumber yard could get me clear dry boards about 3/4’’ thick. The design is for 8 mm, which I figure is about 5/16’’. Thin kerf better quality blade for tablesaw and ripping in two is right at the border of getting it. One half is kinda close to 8 mm, second half is in need of planing , so will be a bit less (the original stock is 3 sides planed). Or, I am overly optimistic and will have enough kindling to burn for the whole winter.???
    It is hard for me to say how would the 1 mm thickness will compromise the strength and whether I can (or have to) compensate somehow, like, thicker cloth???
     
  2. sabahcat
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    Location: australia

    sabahcat Senior Member

    Cut your planks in half so both halves are the same thickness
    They dont need planing as they are edge glued together and then you sand the **** out of the face to remove any glue and knock off highspots.
    Then get a long handplane and run that over the outside to ensure surface is fair before glassing.
     
  3. Petros
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: Arlington, WA-USA

    Petros Senior Member

    That would be a question best to ask the designer of the boat. Without knowing the size, design or intended use of the boat it is hard to say if you have any excess strength, the designer should know the answer.

    Seems to me that much of the hull the slightly less thickness is not a problem, but you will need the full thickness at the critical high load areas on the hull. This is where the designer can help you.
     
  4. sabahcat
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    Location: australia

    sabahcat Senior Member

    3/4 inch is 19.05mm
    Thin Kerf blade is about 2.5 mm
    planks should end up at 8.2mm

    Perfect

    8mm with 400 in and out?

    Pretty sure Split Enz only used 8mm and 400gsm and she is 12.19m and flogged mercilessly
    They may have just used uni across the planks from memory, not Biax as the long grain of the cedar provides a certain amount of strength in that direction.

    [​IMG]
    http://www.givencats.com/
     
  5. YoungGrumpy
    Joined: May 2012
    Posts: 64
    Likes: 4, Points: 8, Legacy Rep: 34
    Location: New Jersey

    YoungGrumpy Junior Member

    Yep. I was not sure if the 0.2 mm will end up eaten by planing/sanding.
    However, I just got a call from the lumberyard. The more experienced guy there offered me a 6 inch by 1 inch rough dimensions for a $3.02 per linear foot. I do not know how good is the price (two other places that I've contacted by email did not responded), but I like the size. Four sides planed and regular ripping blade should give me the needed planks easily.
     

  6. sabahcat
    Joined: Dec 2008
    Posts: 792
    Likes: 28, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 273
    Location: australia

    sabahcat Senior Member


    Why does it need planing? That's just a waste of material and time.
    Rough sawn edges are perfectly ok for glueing.
    other faces get sanded before glassing anyway.
     
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