Wooden Boat Renovation Forum

My Lapstrake

Where is the best place to go and talk about sistering some broken ribs on my wooden boat?

 

Are you talking about finding someone to do the work or finding the imformation to do the work yourself? Woodenboat magazine has been running an excellent series on renovation, covering everything from the keel up. Sistering is not necessarily the best approach, replacing is a much better idea.
If you're looking for someone to do the work there's more wooden boat builders and repairers in Maine than I would bet per capita than anywhere in the world.

 

This is a 1963 WHITE 20' wooden lapstrake I am looking for folks input on how I should aproach this repair.I would like to do it myself depending on what it entails.If I am in over my head after getting all the info I need to make the decision weather to attempt to do this job myself or start saving my pennies to have someone else do it.Hears the story.I noticed the boat was leaking pretty good. I removed the flooring to find eight ribs broken on the port side of the boat right where the bend in the rib is the strongest.These ribs are about mid ship.The ribs are about an inch wide and five eights thick running from under the gunwale to the otherside of the hull.These ribs are about six inches apart from each other and go under the floor supports.The questions I have are as follows.Would I need to steam these new ribs to install them.Should I take the floor framework up to replace these ribs or do I work around the floor frames?As I said the only hard bend in these ribs is at the point just where it passes under the floor frame and heads towards the center of the boat.It woul be a big job to take all the floor frame work up.My concern with steaming and useing a form is that most of the rib is pretty straight except for the sharp bend where the side of the boat meets the bottom.I invision running sisters right between the old broken ribs.Then refastening the new sistered ribs to the strong part of the strake.Don't get me wrong I love this boat and it is still quite pretty to look at but it's not a one of a kind and I would never expect to get out of it what I have into it.So with that in mind I am looking for a way to repair this craft that will be strong but not to concerned about keeping it original.Thanks in advance.

 

This is a 1963 WHITE 20' wooden lapstrake I am looking for folks input on how I should aproach this repair.I would like to do it myself depending on what it entails.If I am in over my head after getting all the info I need to make the decision weather to attempt to do this job myself or start saving my pennies to have someone else do it.Hears the story.I noticed the boat was leaking pretty good. I removed the flooring to find eight ribs broken on the port side of the boat right where the bend in the rib is the strongest.These ribs are about mid ship.The ribs are about an inch wide and five eights thick running from under the gunwale to the otherside of the hull.These ribs are about six inches apart from each other and go under the floor supports.The questions I have are as follows.Would I need to steam these new ribs to install them.Should I take the floor framework up to replace these ribs or do I work around the floor frames?As I said the only hard bend in these ribs is at the point just where it passes under the floor frame and heads towards the center of the boat.It woul be a big job to take all the floor frame work up.My concern with steaming and useing a form is that most of the rib is pretty straight except for the sharp bend where the side of the boat meets the bottom.I invision running sisters right between the old broken ribs.Then refastening the new sistered ribs to the strong part of the strake.Don't get me wrong I love this boat and it is still quite pretty to look at but it's not a one of a kind and I would never expect to get out of it what I have into it.So with that in mind I am looking for a way to repair this craft that will be strong but not to concerned about keeping it original.Thanks in advance

 

To start with, you need to return the hull to its original shape. It usually helps to make a cut at the break in the frames. Then , depending on the hull shape construction, use molds or props to push or pull it in. Once you have this done, it is time to steam the sisters in. However, this assumes the planks are in good enough condition to take the fasteners.

 

Question:Say you have a board the thikness of one and a eigth inches by say six inches.Would it be ok to rip the ribs by taking them from the edge of the board.Say 1 1/8 by 1/2 inch which happens to be the thickness of the ribs needing to be replaced.My guess is it shouldn't matter as long as the grain is followed.The other option would be to rip the board to the 1/2 inch thick and then make your 1 1/8 ribs out of that.I'm just wondering if there is any difference in strength , bending and steaming milling the ribs one way or the other.I hope my description of what I am asking is clear enough.I really want to save this old girl and I'm just trying to get as much info as possible befor I take the mighty jump.I have built small houses and additions on my house but when you get into this intracate kind of work I get a little scared.Look forward to anyones input.Also is white oak the stuff to use these days to make these ribs out of?The original is red oak I beleive. This boat lives in salt water.

 

Bending oak is green. Dry wood doesn't steam well and will probably crack. If the wood is dry, you can submerge it in water for a couple of weeks and it will help. The grain of the wood should be as straight as possible. It doesn't matter which way it lays.

 

I'am planning to built a wooden sailing yacht. LOA 150 feet , LOD 120,Beam 30 feet.My friends suggested that instead of building a new boat I should buy a used cargo boat of that dimension and refurbish it into yacht standard. There is quiet alot of boats of smaller size up for sale.Those cargo boats are design for carrying goods, they are not as refine as purposely built pleasure craft,but if I can save lots of dollars by doing it that way ..not bad eh.. any suggestion ..?

 

stopping compounds

Hi ther.I am just new to this forum stuff so excuse if i screw up.
I am about to start the re build of a 1920 Duch design sailing side trawler.she is 50'.
does anyone have any cheap sugestions for stoping the seams? Its a big boat to put in lisead putty.....

 

If you havent already bought a used boat I would suggest being careful as I have seen used boat become as expensive as building new. Keep a close eye out. Now after "Katrina" there are alot of boats selling for cheap on what I call the black market of boats. Some insurance companies would rather replace a boat than fix it leaving the owner with a piece of junk he can't get rid of. Keep an eye out on other forums and for sale sites on the internet. Call around to a few yacht brockers and see what they have that they aren't advertising. Good luck. Personally I enjoy building from scratch. I get what I want or in my case what the customer wants.

If you are referring to joint compounds in a hull that old be carefull. The wood still has alot of life in it at that age however has dried alot of its natural oils and putties and compounds could be detrimental. Be careful to how close to the waterline you get as it will soak water and swell therefore pushing out the compounds and leaving bigger leaks. Try using marine type cauking cotton that is treated. Typically used on boats from this era to begin with. Go to your local marine supply and they will direct you. I think you'll find the same price for whichever method you choose.

 

old-woodies

yes i need such a forum---1962 herreshoff-h-28 skiff

 

Great idea, count me in

 

Ruthean's restoration.

Update on Rutheans restoration.
She is a 54' huon pine yawl, designed by Lawrent Gilles in 1947.
She is being restored by F.J.Darley, a shipwright apprenticed in england.
and his wife Wendy.
Currently all steamed ribbs and frames have been replaced and the hull is 3/4 refastened.
Horn timber is being replaced and section of beam shelf.
New huon pine planking has just arrived.
Lots to go, will show photoes when I can figure out how to.

 

In 1957, my father hand-built a plywood boat modeled after a Carter Craft Sea Lark. It has a 35 HP Johnson motor, electric start, with metal gas can. All in good condition. Trailer included. Just out of curiosity, what did you pay for your Sea Lark?