Wooden Boat Renovation Forum

I think you are right. I'll look at larger engines. If I remember correctly, as much as 40HP may be available with a 15 inch shaft. And the hull dimensions can accomodate it with careful fitting. I am building a 1/5 scale structural moclel this weekend. Takes time, but for a one-off original design, the time spent on the model will pay for itself. Nice to be able to really visualize the shape and structure.

 

We sell 50HP engines with 15" shaft. I'm sure you can get them locally.

 

wooden forum only GREAT IDEA.

AS A NEW MEMBER I WOULD LOVE TO BE ABLE TO TALK TO JUST "WOODIES" AS IM JUST ABOUT TO START RENOVATING A 50 FOOT FISHING TRAWLER TO A LIVEABOARD CRUISER AND NEED ALL THE HELP AND ENCOURAGEMENT I CAN GET.

 

monty, you're a snob! But a well-meaning, right-spirited kind of snob, to be sure..... ;-)

 

1945 Lightening

need to get some suggestions as to how to start repairing a leak. The problem seems to be in the centerboard. Do you have any suggestions as to how I can start to look at this project.

Thanks, Ben Beall

 

Finally found a body of like minded individuals with the same affliction...old wood boats.

I would applaud the forum with the focused interest of information on wooden boat reconstruction et al. This response may be somewhat dated to the initial Doctor Dave posting but this is my two cents.

Thanks
DK

 

Exhausted

Wow this stuff is so interesting. I think I have the ultimate green status. I have never rebuild a wood boat let alone 5 of them. Cripes!!!! You guy are a bit intimidating. All I want to to do is the right thing to keep my 67 dump boat (thats what it says on the registration) from turning in to a rotten pile of dust. The old girl take on a lot of water and it is time to do some thing about it. Filling the hull with water at the begining of the season like my grandpa told me to do before he gave it to me just is'nt working any more. It has I dont know how many coats of white paint on it. It may sound lazy but everybody sanding sucks. mabe I should just get over it and face it. Looks like my idea of some kind of resin coating is bad cause of the moisture factor. I appreciate your time very much.
Kurt
Green Bay WI

 

I am also in the process of a major restoration. I would love to have other opininions, and even a little encouragement from time to time. Sign me up for a wooden boat restoration forum.

Kyle Where do I find the cool smiley faces?

 

Chinese Fishing Hull

Hi guys ...its the oriental connection. Well I bought the fishing hull I mentioned earlier. Now I need to figure out where to start. I want to pull her out of the water remove all the exterior paint then sheath in fibreglass to give her a fairer appearance. Once out of the wter is there a problem connected to the amount of time she is dry? How long should I wait for timber to dry before starting work?What weight of glass fiber can you suggest? I may have bitten off more than I can chew here. There are two attached photos

 

Mike, fiberglassing planked wooden hulls is generally looked upon with disfavor. Wood moves, the glass doesn't, so it tends to crack, allowing water to get into the wood, but not get out. The boat tends to rot from the inside out. Now that said, there is a guy, Allan Vatais (IIRC, or something close to that) who has written a book on this very process. It may be out of print, but you could try www.abe.com. Allan has also written a book on lofting. Try to find that (to get the spelling), or perhaps another here will know the exact spelling of Allan's last name. I don't know the title of the book.

 

Thanks Ed,

I have received the same advice from many people and it makes logical sense so the hull will stay as is. The paint will be stripped the planks faired as much as posible and new coats of paint applied. Which brings me to the next question .....is it OK to use epoxy paint or will the same "inflexible" result occur. If not epoxy what do you suggest??

Thanks in advance

Mike

 

Believe it or not, I know more than a few people who use latex paint... Now, they're not after a "Bristol Finish", of course. Might work for you, topside. You'll still need an antifouling below the waterline, of course.

Sounds like quite the project and location.

 

It's good advise to not sheath a wooden hull.

The best paint you can put on the hull is the two part linear polyurethanes, followed by the the one part polys (modified enamel) then the epoxies, enamels and lastly latex.

Two part polys are very difficult to do well and quite nasty to live with during application, should be left to the pro's. The one part polys are very good and easier to apply. Epoxies aren't as the name suggests, but rather flexable and good paints. Enamels have been the selection for many generations and have served quite well. Latex is the cheapest way to go and I've used it on work boats and class B yachts. Latex lasts about as long as enamels, needing renewal every few years, but doesn't keep the water out near as well as the other paints. If using it, buy the best you can (about the same as a reasonable grade of enamel) and do good prep.

Painting is 90% prep.

Bottom paint has it's categories as well. Modified epoxy (use for long wet cycles), copolymer ablative (not good in high fouling areas and infrequent use), thin films with teflon (not very long lived, but slippery), vinyl (can be burnished, compatablity issues with other paints) and sloughing (not the smoothest finish, but typical on wooden and commercial boats)

 

Bud, you should contact the Brittania Heritage Shipyard in Richmond. Try speaking to Phil, He is a real nice fellow and I am sure that he would be happy to take your stuff if it is donated. It is a really cool place with a working marine ways, displays, and ongoing restoration projects conducted primarily by volunteers. They are in the process of restoring the last gillnetter built in that very same yard ! It is a great way to spend a few hours. If you require any advice with your project,feel free to e-mail me. Good luck with your project.

 

wooden sail boat restoration

I am just starting on the restoration of a 24ft loa keel boat designed and built in Essex UK in 1949 the year I started my apprenticeship. She is pitch pine on oak, carvel with long flush deck and cockpit aft. If this topic is of interest I would be happy to tell the story as it goes along. New mast and return to yawl rig. New decks. Possible removal of garboards to get at the hog pieces. Original petrol 6hp to be replaced by electric propulsion being actively pursued as a diesel plonker is out of keeping. Will sail on the Solent and neighbouring Dorset waters. I wonder....